Olveiroa to Finisterre

Written on June 29, 2009.....19.4 miles.

Lighthouse and Coast Guard Station, now

habitociones. Finisterre, (Fisterre, Spain)

Cliffs at the end of the world.

Bronze shoe.

photos courtesy of http://www.ourcamino.com/

This morning we left right at 6 a.m. We are following the book and signs the best we can. The path between Santiago and Finisterre takes concentration and alertness to stay on the Camino. The stone waymarkers are now turned sideways and some tiles are placed on the corners of buildings.

We walked to a point near Hospital, Spain where the route to Muxia separates from the Camino Fisterre. We are going to Finisterre and will just keep heading west. Sometime after the crossroads we get our first view of the Atlantic Ocean...wow....we really are walking to what was considered the end of the world in medieval times. This view of the Atlantic gives me new energy. A few miles later in a very isolated area we find Ermita Nosa Senora Das Neves, a hermitage. There is a shrine that has grown as pilgrims have left personal items of significance to them.

As we keep walking west we are on a path with rock walls to the left that appear to be dividing parcels of land. No evidence of past structures, just divided land. The walls, about four feet high extend for over 100 feet.

Today there is on and off rain so as a result our ponchos are on and off. The temperature is warm.

We soon start to walk down a hill and there is our first sight of Cee, a large town more than half way now to Finisterre. It´s a beautiful town built close to the bay. Orange roofs, white buildings, shiny blue water..... very romantic looking to me.

A few times a truck with a loud speaker went through town....many words in Spanish I did not understand, but two words, Circo Dupey, I heard clearly. Although I heard them I didn´t understand what Circo Dupey was. Then we turned a corner and there in a lot were circus tents and vehicles. If the circus was open I´m sure that Vern would have wanted to check out Circo Dupey.

We walked through and out of Cee. For many miles we could see the point of the peninsula and knew that today we would be near the lighthouse and Faro Fisterre, (the end of the world).

We walked for quite aways on a stone path made through the sand on a beautiful beach. Soon we were guided onto a street and saw a sign for our hostal. We checked in and left our backpacks in our room. We made our way to find the albergue, (no Pilgrim Office here), to receive our second Compestela for walking from Santiago to Finisterre.

As we walked along the main street of Finisterre we saw Christina and Gilda. As we were talking with them Vern looked at the man with them and said is that Ollie? It was! Vern had taken a break with Ollie weeks before while I was walking up a hill. We had spoken of him often since then and another pilgrim had told us that they had met him and he had spoken of us.

How exciting and what a great way to define and celebrate our walk to Finisterre and the completion of the walking part of our Camino. We made plans to meet them for dinner. We continue to the albergue and show our pilgrim passport ro receive our Finisterre Compestela. I am grateful for our health and determination to walk to Finisterre.

Buen Camino

Buen Amigos/Amigas

Buen Vida

Puente Maceira to Olveiroa

Written on June 28, 2009......26 miles.

An Horreo..used for drying corn.

A common sight throughout Galicia.

I´m waking up every morning at 5:30 a.m. and have been for a few weeks now. 6 a.m. is a good time for us to start walking.

This morning when I awoke I opened the shutters and right out side the window was a flood light shining on the waterfall. While I was waking up and mesmerized by the waterfall something went flying by the window so fast I couldn´t identify it. I kept watching and there it went again and again. I finally had to get ready so I stopped watching.

As we left Puente Maceira we crossed the bridge over the Rio Tambre. After a short walk we were guided by our friend, the yellow arrow, to go into the forest. We turned our headlamps on and moved along. Soon we came to a clearing and could see daylight...just at that moment we saw a large silver streak go by just like the one I saw earlier at the window. We realized what it was...a large bat. It was the largest one we had seen. And the lightest in color.

As we continued we reached Negreira, a large town. I enjoyed the walk through town with all of its sculptures and artwork. There were quite a few buildings in this area that have roof tops that look like castles. We walked along taking only essential breaks for food and potty breaks. We brought sandwiches from the hostal.

We knew that today would be a long walk. We were focused on getting to Olverioa, but stayed conscious of how we were doing. As we walked up a path I called to Vern have you ever seen this? The path was going straight through a corn field. I was standing in between two rows of corn.

After walking ten miles we found a bar and it was open. As we drank our coffee Jim walked up and Sybelle right behind him. We had a quick break and kept going.

Sybelle is going to stay here in Vilarserio in a schoolhouse. Our guidebook describes it as basic accomodation with floor space and bathroom. The key is with the family in the red house #39. As we passed the schoolhouse we looked for the red house #39. The house is now blue. Sybelle was still eating when we left...we know we´ll see her tomorrow or the next day on the Camino. We walked for a couple of more hours and entered Villar do Castro, a very small village. The Camino turns left into a farm. At that moment a herd of cows with horns and two farmers came toward us. The cows were walking slowly and both farmers had them in a straight line.

We keep walking to Olveiroa, careful not to stop at Ponte Olveira or to turn right to Olveira. We continued to the hostal that a friend told us about.

When we arrived at the hostal we ordered dinner. I ate macaronis, but was too tired to eat the rest...pork chops and bread.

I asked for the food to be packaged and knew that I would have my lunch for tomorrow.

Santiago to Puente Maceira

Written on June 27, 2009.....11.3 miles.

Puente Maceira..Hostal, large building on right.

photo courtesy of www.roadscholarswa.com

This morning as we were leaving Santiago there were few yellow arrows. At one point we were deciding which way to go. Soon Manuela walks up to us, a pilgrim we met with Lisa. She checked her book and off we went out of Santiago, up a hill and into a suburb. As we reached the summit we turned around to see the first glimpse of the sun highlighting the spires of the Cathedral. Breathtaking is the the only word that comes to mind.

As we were walking we could hear live music at 7 a.m. We remember seeing alot of young people in Santiago dressed in formals. An all night grad party...I enjoyed hearing the music as I walked. Now that we´re on our way to Finisterre or Fisterra there are many more miles in between bars and villages. I prefer Finisterre...to me it represents end...the end of the world. It is recommended to have your food and water with you.

This is definitely the road less travelled.

Great walking weather, cool and overcast. We walked for one hour to the summit of Trasmonte.

One of the tips that Alex had given us was to not go to Negreira today as is recommeded in most Camino guide books. He suggested that we stop at the wonderful hostal-restaurant in Puente Maceira.

When we came around a corner near Puente Maceira there was one of the most beautiful scenes ever...a river with a semi-circle waterfall like a smaller version of Niagra Falls. Right next to the falls is a hostal with decks overlooking the river. We immediateley asked for a room. We checked in, took care of clothes and showers, took a nap and spent some time exploring this wonderful ancient Roman village. We walked over the beautifully restored medieval bridge over the Rio Tambre. Many of the original mansions have been restored. As we walked along the river we discovered two ancient mill houses built in the water. Again, the use of stone slabs to create these mills is mind boggling. We love our room overlooking the water fall.

We were even able to wash our clothes in a machine....what a dream.

At 7 p.m. we had dinner with three other pilgrims: Matt from S.F., Jim from Ireland and Sybelle from Sweden. All English speaking. We had a wonderful dinner of homemade chicken soup, chicken, salad and potatoes in sauce....and the first time in spain, cheesecake. Vern and I even had time to play cards.

A great first day for our adventure to Finisterre.

Lavacolla to Santiago!!

Written on June 26, 2009....6 miles.

Cathedral photo courtesy of http://www.ourcamino.com/

Mass photo courtesy of http://www.pbase.com/lillirod/camino_2004

As we left Lavacolla I was grateful for how far we´ve gone, how healthy and well we are and how many good friends we have made along the way.

We walked into Monte do Gozo. There was a wonderful pilgrim statue tribute.

A little further into San Marcos we had our first glimpse of Santiago.

We have arrived here by putting one foot in front of the other.

Since June, 2008 all if have known is that I would walk the Camino de Santiago to Finisterre via Santiago. I didn´t have any expectations about the walk, I just knew that I would do it and I would be safe and all of my needs would be met. So as we walked down the hill to Santiago I felt that all was in right order and this is exactly where I´m suppose to be. As we moved toward the Oficina de Peregrinos, (Pilgrim Office), we caught sight of the Cathedral. I instantly felt peaceful and knew that I was right where millions of other pilgrims have walked since at least the eigth century. As we hurried along to get to the Pilgrim office an elderly lady asked in Spanish if we needed a room I replied with ¨tenemos cabras¨. A few minutes later I realized that I had told her that we have goats. I was trying to tell her ¨tememos camas¨, we have beds. I was laughing so hard when I realized what I said that shop owners were looking at me.

We found the office of peregrinos and lined up to show our pilgrim passport and receive our Compestela. a credential showing that we walked at least 100 km to Santiago. We walked 749 km (495 miles).

While we were in line I looked at the young woman´s shoulder in front of me..her tattoo read ¨ si queres, puedes¨If you want, you can¨. What a profound message on the shoulder of a woman. No truer statment. a reminder that whenever I set my intention, I achieve it. After our pilgrim passports were scrutinized and we were asked to sign in we were given a Compestela. As I received my Compestela I honored myself for all that I have accomplished in my life. Every person´s Camino is to be honored.

When we first got in line there were about thirty of us. After receiving our Compestelas and congratulating everyone around us we walked by more than a hundred people in line on the stairs. In the line of pilgrims were several pilgrims that we recognized..the three young people that we promised we would see in Santiago, and several others that had passed us many times.

We left the pilgrim office, asked for a map of the city and moved quickly to find the Hostal Alameda where we had a reservation. We just had a few minutes to check in and go back to the area where the Cathedral is for the Pilgrim Mass.

We found two of the last places to sit in the Cathedral. We sat, catching our breath and looking for pilgrims that we know. Soon we saw Pamela from London, and several people that Lisa had walked with and stayed in albergues with.....and then Vern spotted Lisa in another section of the Cathedral! I went over and motioned that we would meet her after the service.

The Mass, naturally was conducted in Spanish. Alot of the formalities and singing was done by a Nun. There were two pilgrims, one fom Germany and one from Spain that spoke. During the service a list of how many pilgrims from each country had received a Compestela and where they had started their pilgrimage was read. As the service went on I realized that it was harder for me to stand each time everyone stood. I was overwhelmed by the beauty of the Cathedral. Also such a large group of pilgrims who achieved their goal and helped others achieve theirs was very moving for me.

At the end of the service the Botafumerio was filled with incense, lit and was swung high from side to side in the Cathedral. It was originally used to fumigate the sweaty and disease- ridden pilgrims. The Botafumerio is not used at every pilgrim service. We felt so fortunate to be there as it was swinging high right over our heads.

After service Lisa showed us where to line up to ¨hug the apostle¨and where to get in line to kneel in front of the casket containing relics of St. James. As we were going from line to line we saw more pilgrim friends. Victor, Javier and a friend of theirs were there. We had previously walked a long way with them. It was so good to see them. I feel such a special bond with these young men. They are gentle souls, good human beings who have added more than they know to my Camino.

We saw Chejuan from Korea, Gobbie from Germany. Several peoople who Vern always seemed to know their names, but I didn´t.

There is such an air of celebration around Santiago...reunions, pilgrims hugging and jumping, and laying on the stone slabs that form the square in front of the west side of the Cathedral.

Since I´ve arrived in Spain I am fascinated with the structures of stone. Stone buildings, stone slabs to form foot bridges over creeks and rivers. Thin vertical pieces of stone especially in Galicia to create boundary lines and fences.

We saw Alcx from Holland who had just returned from Finisterre. He was full of info and good tips for that part of the Camino. We spent some more time with Lisa and then went to our room to settle in and pack up for tomorrow.

Santiago is one of the very special places in the world.

Azura to Lavacolla

Hostal San Paio where we stayed in Lavacolla.....photo courtesy of http://www.ourcamino.com/

Written on June 25, 2009......19 miles.

We carefully made our way down the five flights of stairs and quickly got on the Camino. Once we were about four miles away we looked back to see a thin strip of light caused by the sun rising over Azura.

We walked ten miles before the nearest village. We entered a bar in Salcedo. There was a large screen and on it was a video of the Camino from St. Jean Pied de Port to Finisterre. It was a great video and brought back so many memories of many of the villages and waymarkers along the way.

Each Providence seems to have its own way of letting you know where to proceed on the Camino. One waymarker that is pretty consistent, though, is the yellow arrow. The arrow may be painted on the sidewalk, walls, rocks, back of stop signs, back of any sign, the middle of the road, or just about anywhere. The yellow painted arrow has been such a comfort to me every time I saw it. No matter where I was I knew I was headed to Santiago. Sometimes the yellow arrow would be painted on trees in the middle of forests. So many times I blessed the people that made the effort and took the time to paint the yellow arrow and to put any kind of waymarker on ¨the way¨ for us.

At the Salcedo bar we met a father and son from the United States. The father from Tennessee and the son living in Colorado. We had a great visit with them.

Just a little farther down the road two women peregrinos on horses went by and then tied their horses in a field to go to a bar and take a break.

Many woodland trails today. Also, more bikes today than we have seen on any other part of the Camino.

At one point I saw a young man sitting on the side of the road looking confused...looked about 15. I asked him in Spanish if he was ok. He said yes....I moved on. Further down the road he started to walk by me. He recognized me and starting walking with me. We walked many miles together. We had fun sharing words and phrases...another language lesson.

Right before Lavacolla we saw the three young people from Spain...they were listening to Spanish rap. I used my walking stick as a guitar...we had alot of fun..we told each other that we will meet in Santiago. A great day of walking and sharing our Camino stories with others as we get closer to Santiago.

Used our ponchos briefly today.

Palas de Rei to Arzua

Written on June 24, 2009.....18.4 miles

Waymarker Arzua

We left Palas de Rei at our usual time..6 a.m. As we walked for awhile we realized that we had not seen a waymarker or any pilgrims. We decided to turn around and find the last waymarker. We then realized that we had turned right instead of left. We continued on the Camino. A short way later we found two girls sitting at the edge of the path. One of the girls looked sick. They spoke Spanish. I asked her, es usted inferma? Si. At that moment a couple from Potrugal came by...we knew that they spoke Spanish and some English. They spoke to the girls. They discovered that the girls´ teacher was ahead on the Camino. The woman suggested that the girls call the teacher and start walking slowly toward the teacher. About three hours later we saw the girls and teacher walking quickly. Both girls looked fine and waved at us. Today we walked through several eucalyptus groves. As we passed through the town of Melide we realized that their specialty is pulpo (octopus). We saw octopus everywhere....sitting on the table as you walked into a cafe, in the window, and in large tanks.

Right before we entered the downtown area we met a group of young people from Virginia who were walking the Camino for six days. As we were taking a break in Melide our friend, Ron came along. He had hurt his foot getting down off a top bunk in an albergue. He was deciding how far to walk and thinking about going to a farmacia.

The weather today was mild and cool..perfect for walking many miles. We arrived in Azura around 4 p.m.. Hostels and pensions were filling up fast. I stayed focused and knew that we would find the perfect bed for Vern and the perfect bed for me. As I was moving quickly on the Camino I noticed a side street with three pensions. We asked the owner of Meson do Peregrino if he had a room...he said compleato....but then said just a moment...are you married? Yes...ok he took us up five flights of stairs and said you´re on the fourth floor....22 euros. We are so grateful for our room.

Portomarin to Palas de Rei

Pilgrim Statue Palas de Rei Photo courtesy of http://www.ourcamino.com/

Written on June 23, 2009.....16.2 miles.

We left Portomarin down the same stairs that we climbed two days ago to arrive here. Crossed over a bridge and started a gradual ascent toward the summit, Sierra Ligonde...2,362 feet. I realize that it must sound like all we do each day is climb mountains and go up and up. The reality is that the inclines take alot more effort for me so I tend to give those parts of the path more emphasis. With every incline starting with the Pyrenees I´ve had to stay focused and keep moving... drawing on mantras and whatever is close at hand to draw strength from. Butterflies, flowers, wheat, corn, grapes, etc. We decided to stay two days in Portomarin to rest up and be ready for the next two days of high mileage walking...today at 16.2 miles being one of them. We limited our bar breaks for coffee and thankfully had cool, overcast weather.

As we moved between Ligonde and Palas de Rei we walked with two young women from a college in Madrid.Sometime later we walked with two young men from Madrid, Javier and Victor. Victor was more talkative of the two young men. They knew some English words and for miles we had fun piecing together conversations about everything from how many years a part between Javier and his brother to their favorite futbol teams. It was amazing how long they walked with us and even took a break with us.

While we took our break along came Ron from Australia...73 years who has walked the Camino before...as he walked past us Javier and Victor couldn´t believe that Ron was walking faster than us. I think the Camino is so good for Victor and Javier and everyone on the Camino...it´s a snapshot of the diversity of cultures, languages, age, ideas and lifestyles.

We arrive in Palas de Rei, a large town, now we are fifty nine miles from Santiago. We quickly find a room and get something to eat. There is a celebration/ fish fry in the plaza with some great music.