Palas de Rei to Arzua

Written on June 24, 2009.....18.4 miles

Waymarker Arzua

We left Palas de Rei at our usual time..6 a.m. As we walked for awhile we realized that we had not seen a waymarker or any pilgrims. We decided to turn around and find the last waymarker. We then realized that we had turned right instead of left. We continued on the Camino. A short way later we found two girls sitting at the edge of the path. One of the girls looked sick. They spoke Spanish. I asked her, es usted inferma? Si. At that moment a couple from Potrugal came by...we knew that they spoke Spanish and some English. They spoke to the girls. They discovered that the girls´ teacher was ahead on the Camino. The woman suggested that the girls call the teacher and start walking slowly toward the teacher. About three hours later we saw the girls and teacher walking quickly. Both girls looked fine and waved at us. Today we walked through several eucalyptus groves. As we passed through the town of Melide we realized that their specialty is pulpo (octopus). We saw octopus everywhere....sitting on the table as you walked into a cafe, in the window, and in large tanks.

Right before we entered the downtown area we met a group of young people from Virginia who were walking the Camino for six days. As we were taking a break in Melide our friend, Ron came along. He had hurt his foot getting down off a top bunk in an albergue. He was deciding how far to walk and thinking about going to a farmacia.

The weather today was mild and cool..perfect for walking many miles. We arrived in Azura around 4 p.m.. Hostels and pensions were filling up fast. I stayed focused and knew that we would find the perfect bed for Vern and the perfect bed for me. As I was moving quickly on the Camino I noticed a side street with three pensions. We asked the owner of Meson do Peregrino if he had a room...he said compleato....but then said just a moment...are you married? Yes...ok he took us up five flights of stairs and said you´re on the fourth floor....22 euros. We are so grateful for our room.

Portomarin to Palas de Rei

Pilgrim Statue Palas de Rei Photo courtesy of http://www.ourcamino.com/

Written on June 23, 2009.....16.2 miles.

We left Portomarin down the same stairs that we climbed two days ago to arrive here. Crossed over a bridge and started a gradual ascent toward the summit, Sierra Ligonde...2,362 feet. I realize that it must sound like all we do each day is climb mountains and go up and up. The reality is that the inclines take alot more effort for me so I tend to give those parts of the path more emphasis. With every incline starting with the Pyrenees I´ve had to stay focused and keep moving... drawing on mantras and whatever is close at hand to draw strength from. Butterflies, flowers, wheat, corn, grapes, etc. We decided to stay two days in Portomarin to rest up and be ready for the next two days of high mileage walking...today at 16.2 miles being one of them. We limited our bar breaks for coffee and thankfully had cool, overcast weather.

As we moved between Ligonde and Palas de Rei we walked with two young women from a college in Madrid.Sometime later we walked with two young men from Madrid, Javier and Victor. Victor was more talkative of the two young men. They knew some English words and for miles we had fun piecing together conversations about everything from how many years a part between Javier and his brother to their favorite futbol teams. It was amazing how long they walked with us and even took a break with us.

While we took our break along came Ron from Australia...73 years who has walked the Camino before...as he walked past us Javier and Victor couldn´t believe that Ron was walking faster than us. I think the Camino is so good for Victor and Javier and everyone on the Camino...it´s a snapshot of the diversity of cultures, languages, age, ideas and lifestyles.

We arrive in Palas de Rei, a large town, now we are fifty nine miles from Santiago. We quickly find a room and get something to eat. There is a celebration/ fish fry in the plaza with some great music.

Stay in Portomarin

Church of San Nicolas.......photo courtesy of http://www.pbase.com-lillirod-profile/

Written on June 22, 2009.

Wow...slept in until 8 a.m. Went downstairs for coffee and toast...this is living! Soon we realize that several pilgrims we know are now arriving from the albergue they stayed at 5 k behind us. Lisa, Ron, and Pamela, arrive. We spend time with them. We visit for a while. I love sharing what we have seen and experienced since the last time we were together.

Several pilgrims are going to the cash machines in Portomarin. There is a big rush to get money before we move on. There are not that many places to get cash. We all seem to be getting the maximum amount and out of the three machines in town, two are out of money.

There is definitely an energy of excitement as we all know that we are less than 100k to Santiago. Lisa and Pam continue on, Ron looks for an albergue here in Portamarin. Vern and I head to the cyber cafe. We are grateful for our decision to rest today. Before we go to the cyber cafe we see the family with the toddler. When Vern asked the father how they made it through the stream with the granite long stepping stones he said that two other pilgrims helped him carry the trailer through the stream.

We took a long nap. I kept checking to see if the church of San Nicolas was open. It was open around 6 p.m. I went right over to get my stamp, but instead a group of young men were chanting. The door was open, several pilgrims were inside. so we entered quietly. After several minutes the men started singing...it was one of those unplanned,beautiful, moments that can only happen when I slow down long enough to be present.

After the men finished singing and chanting I noticed that a few people were walking down the middle of the church to the back. I followed them and received a stamp for my pilgrim passport.

As we started thinking about dinner we saw a pilgrim we had met a few days before. He asked us to join him. Tom from San Francisco. He started out walking in the first few days, but had trouble with his ankles and decided to continue on with a bicycle. He has a great sense of humor and we always enjoy running into him. We hear about him from time to time from others who let us know anytime they meet other Americans on the Camino.

San Mamede do Camino to Portomarin

Written on June 21, 2009.....16.1 miles. The bridge into Portomarin.
Photo courtesy of http://www.ourcamino.com/
The path was fairly level until we arrived at Sarria and climbed many stairs to reach the old section and past the Church of Santa Marina. As we walked through the Medieval Center and out of Sarria to cross a bridge and move into the country we noticed many more pilgrims than we normally do at 7:30 in the morning. I then remembered that Sarria is 118 k (73 miles) from Santiago. A Compestela (certificate of completion) is given when a pilgrim presents a pilgrim passport stamped at 100 k or more. Although we walked through Sarria with many more pilgrims we were soon alone making our way to a Romanesque church in Velante. Yes, the church was open! Now as we are close to 100 k we also need to be mindful to get two sellos (stamps) a day on our pilgrim passports. We always receive one a day at an albergue, hostal, hotel, or pension. We now will add one from a church, cathedral, or bar.
As we have entered the Providence of Galicia we notice less storks, and now churches are surrounded by yards with crypts. As we leave the church our path is now in a stream. Long granite stepping stones have been placed in the center of the stream and with walking sticks in hand we carefully make our way on the stones consciously not to get our boots wet.

We stop at Ferreiros a small village with a great restaurant/ bar and order food for our lunch. Within an hour of leaving Ferreiros we want to find a shady place to nap. We don´t, instead I quickly let the three hard candies in my pocket melt in my mouth. Vern and I encourage each other to keep hydrated and to keep going as the day is getting hotter. We continue through Vilacha a small village. No life visible. Then we come to a long bridge over the river, the wind is blowing and the air is cool off the river. In front of us are many stairs to Portomarin. I take a deep breath and start the climb without looking up. Soon I am at the top. A pilgrim who started earlier in the day seems to be having trouble catching her breath and is being attended to . We head to the plaza where the Church of San Nicolas is and find our pension.

We check in and soon we´re taking a nap. When I wake up Vern is gone. He soon comes back to let me know that Colby, Shannon, and Talis are downstairs at the outdoor cafe in front of our pension. I want to see them, but remember that I made them a promise. I told them that I would write a rap for them as soon as I could. So before I go downstairs and not quite awake I start a rap for them.

When I see them I let them know that it is just the beginning of the rap and I will complete it later. I ask Colby for his hat so I can put it on backwards.

On the internet in the cafe..

you´re from California, Ay?

And you´re from Canada in

Carrion de los Condes?

I´m Vern, that´s Nancy,

that´s Liz, Shannon, I´m Colby.

One foot larger than another...

shoes hurt like a Mother!!
We´re moving down the road
to hook up with Talis...
in Leon we´ll deal with this mess...
to be continued...
As Vern and I explore the town we discover Iglesia San Pedro at the end of town with the original doorway. It is a chapel compared to the larger church in town. There is a beautiful park near the chapel. It is a good place to sit and enjoy a good rest.

Triacastela to San Mamede do Camino

Vern, Me, and Lisa on the Camino

Written on June 20, 2009.....13.6 miles.

There was a choice to make this morning. Go left and walk by the river or go right and walk along a highway. The river route is about three to four miles longer....no brainer...river route. As we were walking into the village of Samos there was a string across our path. We hesitated, turned to the pilgrim behind us and asked if he spoke English. He said a little, I´m from Hungary. I asked him if he had seen a yellow arrow...he motioned to continue under the string and off we went. Before the first turn about thirty feet I saw a herd of several large steer running toward us without any room on either side of the path. I turned and ran and told Vern and our companion to do the same. As I safely got on the other side of the string, (the cattle made a turn to the right and not straight where the string was), I noticed that Vern was not running quickly and had a steer horn about three feet from his butt...I yelled to get moving and he did. It´s not easy to run with a full pack on your back, but we made it!!! We were so relieved that we couldn´t stop laughing about the horns near Vern´s butt and the gate made out of string that held back about 33 tons of steer. We were not sure when to proceed so we waited awhile longer and two more steer went around the curve to the right. We kept waiting for the farmer and didn´t see one. Several yards down the trail was a small elderly lady with a stick guiding a stray up the trail.

The three of us walked into Samos. As we got closer we saw Monasterio de Samos. An enormous Monastery in a small village. One of the reasons we took this route was because of the Monastery. We stopped and had coffee.....a few minutes later Lisa and her new friend Ron, from Australia came toward us and we invited them to join us. After I finished my coffee I felt a strong urge to move toward the Monastery...I left everyone and walked the short distance to the entrance. Once in the monastery office to receive a stamp on my pilgrim passport I overheard a pilgrim offer the Priest 50 euros so that he could go inside the main Monastery sanctuary. The Priest said that if he waits ten minutes he can buy a ticket for 3 euros. Oh my gosh...I thought, I want to go inside...I bought two tickets...right then Vern, Lisa and Ron came in I told them to get ready if they want to go inside. I was so entranced by the artwork and construction of the Monastery that I lost track of time, but I believe we were in there for an hour. The tour guide spoke in very fast Spanish, but just seeing everything was more than worth the time to just be there.

A short way out of Samos there was another decision to be made. Go straight next to a highway for awhile or into the countryside. We chose the countryside. As we were taking a break near a chapel with a graveyeard Lisa came up...we walked with her for a few hours until we reached San Mamede do Camino. It is described in Lisa´s book as a wonderful albergue in the middle of nowhere with good food and great rooms. We arrived around 4:30 p.m..checked in. Vern, Lisa, and I played cards for awile then we had a great communal vegetarian meal. After our meal I saw the family that I had seen in Hornillos del Camino eight days ago. At that time I thought they were on bicycles, with the father pulling their toddler in a trailer. What I discovered in San Mamede is that the father is pushing a cart designed for the child. The child is healthy and happy and well taken care of. I visited with them for a while and found out that it is not easy for them to find accomodations everyday so sometimes they set up the tent that they brought. Their son has his own Pilgrim Passport. They make every effort for their son to be comfortable and happy during their journey on the Camino.

Laguna de Castilla to Triacastela

Shannon, Colby, and Talis

Written on June 19, 2009.....13.6 miles.

Last night as we were getting ready for bed we heard bells right under our window...beautiful cows being herded down the road. Shortly after that more bells and now a herd of sheep are walking by. Right after dinner Vern and I were sitting in front of the Hostal where we were staying, talking with two women from Germany. A dog walked to the back of my chair and started to lift his leg. I saw him out of the corner of my eye and jumped with the chair...moved just in time to avoid getting wet. Another opportunity for a good laugh.

We left Laguna de Castilla and....yes! walked up and up again for at least an hour until we reached O´Cebreiro. O´Cebreiro is the first village in the Providence of Galicia. Galicia is the providence that Santiago is in.

As we reached O´Cebreiro the scene was magical. Large straw roof pallozas, a ninth century church and in the valley below a blanket of fog. The feeling of peace was so overwhelming that I needed to sit and be in this beautiful place without thought or movement.

We continued along and enjoyed the beautiful views and nice dirt path. After awhile we stopped again at a bar and out of the bathroom, here comes Lisa! We had stayed in different villages and now meet again. We walked along through village after village. In one of the villages we passed a stone cutter in the road, cutting stone for a walkway.

The weather was cooler today and more downhill than in recent days. Somewhere before Triacastela I was being passed on the right by a Pilgrim...as I turned my head to greet them with ¨Buen Camino¨, I recognized Colby....I yelled....so surprised to see them. Shannon was with him and also Talis who we had not met before. Talis thought I was yelling about a snake or some danger. We soon had a good laugh, thoroughly happy to see each other. We had not seen Colby and Shannon since Terradillos de los Templarios about twelve days before. Colby and Shannon met Talis coming in from the U.K. in Leon. We all walked along heading to Triacastela talking about where we´ve been and what we have seen. Vern and I are excited to be with our friends and that we all have healthy feet and bodies.

Minute by minute surrender takes the place of expectations. As I put one foot in front of the other I know that all is as it should be and I am blessed with all that I need and with company of fellow pilgrims that I love to be with.

We all had a wonderful meal together...Lisa, Colby, Shannon, Talis, Vern and I . We enjoyed the high quality of the food and the warmth of being with people that have a connection that can hardly be described, let along be understood.

After we all said our Buen Caminos Lisa, Vern and I walked to a nearby chapel.

The Priest rushed right up to Vern and spoke in Spanish very quickly...I said, No entiendo, hablo ingles, he quickly left to the back and returned with his spiritual perception of the Camino in English. It is so moving and wonderful that I will take it with me and contemplate the message.

Today we have a real treat at our hostal....our own clothesline on our own enclosed porch! Life is good.

Trabadelo to Laguna de Castilla

A Palloza

Written on June 18, 2009......10.9 miles.

Leaving Trabadelo we walked along the highway for awhile. A wall had been built to protect walkers. There were many villages today within two to three miles of each other. We took a break at a panaderia, (bakery) and had coffee and toast. Sometime later Vern stopped at a bar to use the bathroom. As he was in the bar I walked to the chapel next door...it was closed. As we were leaving I noticed the door was open so I went in...no one inside, but a few candles burning and a place to light your own candle and leave a donation. Also there was a stamp, pad, and a pen for those who would like a stamp, (sello), from the chapel. We started a slow climb up another mountain toward La Faba, a place we thought we might stay at. As we were making our way toward La Faba we were on a very narrow trail with brush on both sides. I started to hear yelling and bells...soon coming right at us were huge beautiful cows with horns. One young man and a dog were guiding about seven huge cows down the mountain. I quickly moved into the brush and was so grateful to be that close to the animals. I thought they were bulls but Vern had looked more closely and decided that they were cows with horns.

Soon we came to La Faba and decided that we felt good enough to keep going to the next village. We continued up the mountain. As we walked there was less shade. We found out later it was 95 degrees. We did very well and reached the village of Laguna de Castilla. Just on the right while entering the village was a Palloza, the first one we have seen. A traditional structure with a straw roof, built in the round.

We arrived at noon and asked for a room. One albergue/cafe in the village. She said that she had a private room available. As we entered the room I went to the window....beautiful view of the valley and just as I thought we were right in the middle of a farm.

As I went out to check my clothes on the clothesline a woman guided a horse right through the clothes and into a field where her husband was waiting with a wooden plow to attach to the horse and proceeded to plow the field.

Today at the albergue I met a young woman from Fairfax, California. It was good to talk with her and both share our experiences so far on the Camino.

This albergue is filling quickly. I love this village with its flies and animals. No phone or internet. The owner of the albergue goes to the garden to pick vegetables for the meals that she prepares.

I feel blessed to be here. As I offer to pay right away, the woman says tranquilamente. And I say muy bueno.