Castrojeriz to Fromista

Written on June 4, 2009......15.8 miles.
We left Castrojeriz at 5:40 a.m. Today is the final stage of the Meseta. We wanted to get going before it got hot. We had to climb a steep hill to leave Castrojeriz. As I climbed I occupied myself with a to do list that I turned into a mantra. I had an orange that I wanted to eat...it was heavy...so orange was a word. I need to unzip the legs of my pants because I was hot....pants was a word. I needed to drink my sports drink for electrolytes...so drink was a word. My mantra became orange, pants, drink..orange, pants, drink. I repeated it a thousand times.
As I reached the summit I looked back and saw the most beautiful valley and sunrise.
We walked eight miles to the first bar. As I was drinking my decaf espresso with leche I heard American music coming out of a speaker on the veranda. Yes! I danced and drank my coffee.
Today we walked on alot of earthen paths clearly marked. Very few pilgrims today.
No shade, carrying 3 liters of water.
After a few more miles we stopped in the village of Boadilla. We found a bar with a backyard and a pilgrim from Louisiana. The three of us were talking about how few Americans we have met on the Camino. We were the first she had met. Vern and I have met about ten Americans, but we have met alot of English speaking people from Canada, Ireland, England, Germany and other places. Just about that time here comes Andrew from Virginia who we had met yesterday in Castrojeriz. We had our coffee and were going back into the bar to get something else...it was closed. Oh well, it´s siesta time.
There is an ancient canal system in Fromista that seems to be updated over the years. It seems to be one of the highlights of this village. Another highlight is the eleventh century Iglesia de San Martin. A beautiful one of a kind cathedral...at one time could have been a fortress as well, or it seems. It has been hailed as one of the finest examples of pure Romanesque in Spain. The detail is beyond belief.
For the last few days we have chosen hotels over albergues. We have needed the extra sleep and the t.l.c. that comes with a hot bath.
We love the feel of Fromista and will spend tomorrow here taking care of ourselves and ¨re-grouping¨.

Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz

The remains of St. Anton over the road on the way to Castrojeriz.

Written on June 3, 2009....13.2 miles
Vern and I and the family were the first ones to leave the albergue. I did not want to wake up the other twelve people so I put on my headlamp and got dressed in the hallway. I took my backpack and sleeping bag outside to a bench to get organized and ready to go. After brushing my teeth in the plaza I was ready to go. Everyday I am carrying three liters of water and drink every bit of it.
As we were leaving Hornillos, walking up a hill, a fellow pilgrim passed and as she did she turned around and gasped......the sun was rising and it was incredible.
We took few breaks today and moved along quickly as it was getting hot earlier than usual.
The silence in the Meseta is deafening. Blue butterflies and again...red poppies guided the way.
One of the only areas with shade and a cafe was Hontanas about seven miles from where we started. As we walked toward Hontanas we did not see it until we were almost on top of it. It is hidden in a valley with the very top of the church the only part of the village that is visible.
We are grateful that we started early. By 11:30 a.m. the sun was hot.
Vern was far ahead singing, ¨She´s so vicious, she´s so vicious¨ really loud to some song on his ipod. About that time a couple from Madrid caught up with me and looked at Vern who was still singing. I told them that mi esposo tiene musica en su cabeza. They laughed and moved on. They told me that they are walking the Camino in three parts in three years. This is their second year.
As we entered Castrojeriz a college student stopped us and indicated that he wanted us to answer a survey about the Camino. Vern stopped to talk with him. I told the student that I would answer his survey if we moved into the sombra, (shade). Vern didn´t care if he was in the sun so he stayed with the student...I moved on to find a quiet room with a bathtub.
We found a wonderful room. We went to a farmers market outside and bought a couple of bananas and apples. We did very little walking in this village as we needed to save our energy for another day in the Meseta.

Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

The Meseta

Written on June 2, 2009......12.7 miles
There were some wonderful statues and sculptures to catch our attention as we were leaving Burgos. We walked about two miles before moving out of the city. After several miles and two villages we started walking into the Meseta. It will be about three days of walking to once again be in shade and more services.
We were fortunate today....lots of sun, but a cool breeze most of the day. When we arrived in Hornillos del Camino the albergue was full, but they had an overflow section in a house a short distance away. A family came in right behind us from Poland.....it is our first time in an albergue with children. The children are about 8 years and 11 years. They both have their own backpacks that seem fully stocked.
The father told us that he works for an American company and speaks pretty good English. The room we slept in not only had bunkbeds, but for added beds, had bunkbeds placed directly next to each other. As a result, Vern slept next to their son and I slept next to their Mother.
Around 5 p.m. a young couple on bicycles pulled into Hornillos. The man was pulling a trailer...they had a toddler....another first for us on the Camino.
Again today we saw Andy. Andy is a pilgrim that we have known for the longest amount of time. We met him on day two in Refugio Orisson in the Pyrenees. I tried to explain to Andy that we had heard that Monica and Sonia may be going back home because they are homesick. I said that they inferme de casa. He laughed so hard that he almost spit out his wine. He said in his best English that I did not say homesick...I said that their house was very sick.
Whatever my laughing pattern is it is now happening everyday. I tried to explain this to Andy....he said that it is my hour of happiness. He is right
Andy has walked through Italy without trails. He likes to sleep outside in his hammock as much as possible.
I feel so blessed to have this time on the Camino to truly exchange moments of joy and truth with others.

San Juan de Ortega to Burgos

The Cathedral in Burgos

Written on June 1, 2009.....16.9 miles plus.
Last night we stayed in a municipal albergue in an old monastery. There had to be 200 people in three rooms. We soon learned that there would be soup at 7 p.m. for a donation. We decided to look around for a meal in the small village. I went next door to the bar to ask about food. I was told to go to the house behind the church at 7 p.m. When I went to the house around 4 p.m. to sign up for dinner I was told to go back to the bar and let Manuel know that Vern and I want to eat dinner at 7 p.m. I sat in front of the bar and wrote in my journal waiting for Manuel...I knew that he would go back and forth between the bar and the house. I finally saw him and in my best Spanish asked him if we could eat dinner at his house....he said yes. It felt like going into the underground to make dinner arrangements.
It was one of the best dinners and best values that we´ve had.
We left the albergue at 6 a.m. and walked up and up. About two hours later we reached a summit with a large cross. A short way later there was one of the most profound labyrinths I have ever seen. It was very large...about 40 feet in diameter. It seemed to be created by each person placing a stone next to a previously placed stone while they walked on their way.
Soon after we, for the first time, saw a pilgrim with a dog. The dog looked like a long thin Akita.
Again today we saw our friends Monica and Sonia. They are contemplating whether they will proceed through the Meseta. The Meseta is the high plains. What that means to pilgrims is: very little shade, no water founts, and alot of miles between villages.
Today we walked through the industrial part of Burgos in order to get to the City Center and stay on the Camino. In San Juan de Ortega we had talked to a few pilgrims who were going to take the bus on advice of their guidebooks.
Sometimes it is as many miles to enter, pass through, and leave a city as it is to go 10 miles between villages.
The Catederal de Santa Maria in Burgos has spires that can be seen for miles. It is breathtaking in size and beauty...and that´s just on the outside.

Belorado to San Juan de Ortega

This Chapel dedicated to San Nicolás de Barri

Written on May 31, 2009....15.9 miles.
Today we left Belorado at 5:45 a.m. with headlamps on our hats. We walked through 3 villages in the first 1 1-2 hours. We finally arrived at a bar that was open to get our morning cafe. Vern gets espresso shots con leche and I get descafenado con leche (decaf with milk). When I went to the servicios (bathroom), I was in there for about 3 minutes when the light went out. I had taken my headlamp off by now. After about a minute I got an idea....raise my hand in the air...it worked, the light came on, then went off. So I sat on the toliet raising and waving my hand in the air every couple of minutes. Productive and exercise.
Today we climbed three hills, one kept going and going. As people walked by me and greeted me it became harder and harder to see them. It was difficult to see them because sweat drops were gathering in my sunglasses.
Ever since St. Jean Pied de Port we have heard about Tim from Texas. Today in front of the hostel in San Juan de Ortega we met a couple from Canada. They proceeded to introduce their American friends...one of them was Tim from Texas. Vern immediately took a picture.
A note about Bob and Kathy: Yesterday I checked email. On May 29th Kathy had emailed me that they were in Leon. They had spent 2 days in Burgos and are having a great time on the Camino.
In June they will be Grandparents. They´ve had to make time adjustments and have gladly done so.
We will stay in touch via email.
Buen Bambino!!

Redecilla to Belorado

A fun way to cross the river on the way to Belorado

Written on May 30, 2009....8 miles.
Last night we slept in a municipal albergue....14 people in a room. I slept good with my earplugs and sleeping mask.
We left Redecilla around 6 a.m. It´s been hot during the day so we wanted to get an early start. We want to have a good sleep tonight and a bathtub before heading into a more mountainous area.
Again today we saw our friend with the pink towel on his head...always laughing and smiling. We saw Ingrid and her husband on the Camino...we had dinner with them last night.
We´re now walking for about an hour at a time with a 10 minute break, more or less. It was easy to stay on track today, clearly marked......and....we were paying attention.
We´re constantly on the lookout for yellow arrows. The arrows may be painted on walls, sidewalks, streets, trees, rocks, billboards, fences, or just about anywhere. Another indicator of the Camino is a clam shell. Clam shells are usually embedded in the sidewalk when first entering a village.
Today I took the best bath I have ever had. The bathtub has a shower attachment within reach while laying in the bathtub. I was so tired that when I was ready to wash my hair I just turned on the shower and stayed right where I was. The height of luxury...a million dollar bath.
We just checked outside to see where the yellow arrow is when we leave in the morning.....it´s about 50 feet away.

Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Redecilla

A waymark in Redecilla.

Written on May 29, 2009.......8 miles
For the first time on the Camino we stayed at a hostel until the last minute. At 8 a.m. everyone must leave. Santo Domingo de la Calzada is one of two post offices that I had mailed health supplements to before we left home. The Correos (post office) opens at 8:30 a.m. I went in with my picture ID. and with my best Spanish and asked if they had an envelope for me....and they did!! Yes, I was so stoked. I used the last of my supplements yesterday. Now I have protein powder, sports drink powder, seaweed powder, emergen-c packets and muscle re-builder. I believe that these supplements and 2 1-2 to 3 liters of water a day has helped my feet stay healthy and free of chicken eyes, (blisters). It´s added weight to my backpack, but well worth it.
As we left Santo Domingo de la Calzada we were fascinated by large birds again. This time we clearly saw that the birds are not eagles but storks. Many high posts are placed for the birds to make their nests on. We were so focused on the birds that we took a wrong turn and went right instead of straight. Sometime down the road we figured out how to get back on track.
Due to our late start we decided to cut our walk today to 8 miles. We have found a hostel with wash tubs, clotheslines, a bar, the internet, and pilgrim meals.
The Camino way of life is fully a moment by moment exercise in letting go. There is a definite fellowship that develops in the acceptance of others. Language is not as important as one may think. Ideas and well wishes are conveyed without knowing exactly what one is saying. The term of endearment on the Camino is ¨Buen Camino¨, ¨Buenas Dias¨! Farmers, construction workers, Priests, fellow pilgrims...everyone wishes all pilgrims the very best.
In the last two days I have been in two of the most beautiful churches I have ever seen. The feeling of peace in the churches is amazing considering there are many people talking and walking around. The art work and detail are truly works of love.