Cacabelos to Trabadelo

Pilgrim Statue La Portela de Valcarce...outside of Trabadelo

photo courtesy of http://www.ourcamino.com/
Written on June 17, 2009.....11.7 miles.
Last night we had dinner with Lisa and Mariela, (not sure of spelling). Mariela is on a bicycle from Logrono to Santiago. She has already faced challenge and circumstance on the Camino that shows her courage and conviction.
We had a great sleep. At 5:30 a.m. this morning the resident storks that live on the Albergue church started their beak noises that can be very loud. A natural wake up call!
Vern and I left and started walking at 6 a.m.. It was a beautiful walk through vineyards and villages. As we entered Villafranca del Bierz we saw Mariela as she was passing us on her bike.
While taking a break at a sidewalk cafe in Villafranca an awareness came to me: sometimes when I was working I would visualize Vern and I sitting at a sidewalk cafe in a small village somewhere in the world. Here we were in the present time fulfilling that vision not only together but with the support and love of others.

As we were having our coffee Lisa was entering the plaza. Each person on the Camino plays a vital part just as in life. Lisa is a strong presence and unconditionally gives of her time and talents.

Many people in the plaza were discussing which one of the paths they would take today from Villafranca del Bierzo to Trabadelo. Our book recommended the path over the mountain. When we arrived at the place to make our decision: up the mountain, or through the valley next to the highway I was ¨pulled¨to take the path over the mountain.

As we walked up the mountain the views from there were incredible: wide valleys, mountain-top ruins, mountain range after mountain range, (we counted nine in a row), and Villafranca. We truly were in the wilderness in Spain.

After three hours of walking up the mountain it was getting hotter and hotter. I became concerned about myself when I realized I was sucking on the top of my walking stick to get water. I immediately drank some water and electrolyte supplement and ate some hard candy.

All through the mountain Vern was seeing beautiful green lizards, he thinks they were chameleons.

Once we climbed to the summit the trail started winding through hilltop orchards and down into the village. We walked directly to the municipal albergue and picked out our beds. We walked through the village and found the albergue that Lisa is staying in.

We had a great dinner in a restaurant near Lisa´s albergue.

As we were leaving the restaurant Lisa was talking about having breakfast early in the morning. The owner heard her and told her that he opened at 6:30 a.m. Lisa said that she wanted to leave earlier than that. He said good, I will open at 6:00 a.m.! Wow, that´s service!

Ponferrada to Cacabelos

Written on June 16, 2009......10.5 miles.

The picture is Albergue-Parroquia to the right,

Capilla de las Angustia to the right. Seventy cubicles with two beds in each cubicle.

There are many pilgrims leaving Ponferrada this morning around 6:30 a.m.

We pass a small chapel, Ermita son Blas. I have to stop to look at the colorful mural.

As we enter Camponaraya we notice a pilgrim with a dog going the other way!

Another pilgrim who is making the return pilgrimage from Santiago!

As of today we have seen our fourth pilgrim cart. We´ve also seen a pilgrim carrying a trolley on his back with his backpack. One thing about the Camino is no matter how you do it, how fast you walk it or if you use transportation other than your feet it is your Camino and judgements on the Camino are slim to none. As we entered Cacabelos today three young women who started today from Ponferrada started singing in front of us. When they stopped I said loudly, mas musica por favor, more music please. They immediately started singing again. They sound great.

Cacabelos is a friendly village. We arrived at 11:30 a.m. and the alburgue will open at 12 noon. We are staying at Albergue Parroquia at an 18 th century Capilla de las Angustia chapel. Six euros per person. Our room has two beds, storage for backpacks and a light. There are showers and a place to wash and hang clothes. we know that Lisa is walking here today, too.

El Acebo to Ponferrada

Castillo de los Templarios..Ponferrada photo courtesy of www.ourcamino.com

Written on June 15, 2009....10.2 miles.

As we were leaving the village in the morning I noticed the sign, ¨Leaving El Acebo¨. Leaving El Acebo? I thought we were in Riego de Ambros!!

We were guided to a wonderful mountain village in spite of ourselves. Later when we shared our story with Nicky, he said, ¨that was a strange thing to happen to people that don´t drink¨.

As we entered Riego de Ambros, 3.7 miles down the road, we were grateful that we were confused! We loved El Acebo. As we left Riego de Ambros the path we were on changed from large slabs of slate-granite to variuous sizes and shapes of petrified wood.

The last two days have been on beautiful mountain paths . Although we had already walked through the Pyrenees in the first two days it was foggy and our view obscured. Yesterday and today have been clear. As the sun rose we were able to see an hidden village in the distance, serene and isolated.

As we entered Molinaseca I stopped....Iglesia de las Angustias had been built up against steep cliffs. We then crossed a medieval bridge across the River Meruelo.

We have noticed more and more pilgrims in recent days. Some pilgrims start in large cities where bus and train connections are possible.

As we left Molinaseca we climbed for a while. At the summit Ponferrado was in clear view...the newer section to the left...the old section to the right. We headed for the main plaza and clock tower, on the left was Castillo de los Templarios...a beautiful castle on the highest point of the city. We found a room and settled in. Around 7:30 p.m. we started looking for a restaurant. Vern had spotted a Mexican restaurant...the first one we have seen in Spain. As we headed for the restaurant we heard, ¨have you had your supper yet? It was Nicky...we thought he had already left. We were so glad to see him. We sat with him and ordered dinner. We all discussed our walk from Astorga and the beauty of the mountain path.

We know that tomorrow he leaves the Camino and heads home to England. We´ve enjoyed every moment with him from the first time he and Luke passed us on the Camino before Fromista. He would pass us then a few hours later we would see him in a village or in a bar on the way to the village.

Although we did not spend much time walking with Nicky we always came to life when we would see him in an albergue or village. He would get to the villages so early that he would have his pick of beds and would always try to get a private corner to himself. We always would listen to his opinion of where to eat or where the tienda, (store), was because he would have plenty of time to explore the village or city. There are many people on the Camino but there are those who we feel a connection with and just by contact with them made the miles go faster and the sun less harsh. Nicky is one of those people.

Buen Life Nicky!

After our dinner with Nicky we walked with him to his albergue and saw Lisa...they both took us to the Chapel on the grounds, near the ruins of a monastery.

We enjoyed our walk through Ponferrada with its variety of art and architecture, ancient and new.

Rabanal del Camino to El Acebo

Pictures.Refugio in Manjarin and a house in El Acebo where people live upstairs, animals downstairs.

Written on June 14, 2009.....10.5 miles.

As we left Rabanal we climbed higher and higher. I took my time and looked back over the beautiful valley to see the sunrise. Soon we came to Foncebadon, a very small village with a welcoming feel and again an albergue/bar with incense and great music. We took a break and readied ourselves for the climb to Cruz de Ferro at 4,940 feet. We had read about Cruz de Ferro and had seen it in a video. Marking the spot is a tall pole with an iron cross of top. Cruz de Ferro has become a place for pilgrims to reflect on their journey, bless themselves and others , leave a rock from home...(Vern left a rock from a beach in Crescent City), or any token of love. It is a place to do whatever you are moved to do. A short way down the path there was a pile of rocks with a cross. Being the only one there I spent a moment to thank all who have been on my path with me, have crossed my path, and have walked with me throughout my life. As we started down the mountain we came to Manjarin. Manjarin really can´t be called a village. The first sight of Manjarin is a hut-like structure that looks like a beehive. A short way, approx 75 feet is an refugio with an outhouse across the road. The view from this mountain hideaway is phenomenal. I am so grateful to be viewing it. As I enter the refugio, the hospitalier is ringing a bell. Our friend, Lisa, later told us that he rings the bell every hour so that pilgrims find their way. I love the atmosphere here, I love the energy, I love the funkiness, the honesty. At that moment I know that whatever I had ever perceived as hip, was not. This is HIP! I tried to express my feelings to two pilgrims from Germany...they just kept looking at my hips and laughing. At least I know what I mean.

So as we carefully continued down the mountain we entered a village and checked into our room at a Casa Rural.

As we were checking in the owner told us that today there is a big festival. We showered, washed our clothes and left to explore the village.

Soon a procession emerged from the church. Every person that had attended Mass was in the procession. The Father was in the front under a canopy held by four people. Every few feet someone would throw rose petals. An elderly gentleman walked slowly playing the flute. As soon as the procession circled the village they went back into the church. Several people brought out food for the village, visitors and pilgrims. As the festivities, live music and fireworks continued throughout the evening I layed in bed with windows wide open....resting my body, mind, and spirit for the next day of walking.

Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

The Cowboy Bar in El Ganso....to the right is where we met the bicyclists.

Written on June 13, 2009.....13.3 miles.

Again while leaving another city we were confused by the lack of waymarkers. Just at that moment Julia and Gregario came by as they had done several times before.

Each time we would see them I could feel the connection between the four of us become stronger.

This morning in their deliberate, slow Spanish..(for our benefit) they let us know that they were finishing this phase of their Camino and would be going back home to Madrid.

The communication between the four of us had been accomplished with our limited Spanish, their limited English and a true desire between us all to convey and receive friendship.

Vern and I continued on taking a break in El Ganso. I was noticing that the last couple of villages had an "Eastern" feel to them. One village had an homeopathic Doctor. Another village had a bar that was playing East Indian music and burning incense.

As we were taking our break in El Ganso a group of pilgrims on bicycles from Belgium stopped to talk with us. As we were all sharing where we were from and where we started the Camino their support vehicle pulled up. As introductions were being made one of the bicyclists introduced the older gentleman in the vehicle as the Pope. The gentleman being introduced as the Pope seemed to enjoy it and proceeded to "bless" our feet. The driver jumped out and wanted to take a picture of us to show others what people from California are doing.

As we were walking into Rabanal a herd of sheep were crossing the road, we waited and then proceeded into the village. The hostals were filling up so we continued further into the village. We found one in the center of the village. The hospitalier was very friendly and showed us where to wash and hang out our clothes. Our room was on Calle Mayor, (the main street). We had a beautiful view of the mountains and we could see pilgrims as they were coming into the village.

As I was hanging out my clothes I heard music coming from a chapel. I went inside and enjoyed the music and the beauty of the chapel.

Lisa was staying in the same village. She spent some time with us while we were finishing our dinner. We asked her how life was "after the broom". She laughed and said life is good.

Villar de Mazarife to Astorga

View of Plaza Cathedral in Astorga.

Written on June 12, 2009....18.7 miles.

We left at 6 a.m. and were shedding clothes by 9 a.m. We walked many miles before we found a bar....walked over the longest rock bridge yet, (Puente de Orbigo), Rio Orbigo. This beautiful bridge dates from the 13th century and was built over an older existing Roman bridge.

We started taking more breaks due to the heat. Our friend Lisa was walking along as we were taking a break, we continued into Astorga with her.

When we arrived in San Justo de la Vegas I took my shirt off and held it under a water fount......put it quickly back on and enjoyed being cooled down. We went to the nearest bar and I ordered my first descafenado con hielo, (iced coffee).

Vern and I continued to Astorga, Lisa moved ahead to find the albergue.

We walked through plazas and past shops to find the albergue, St. Javier. We found two top bunks that were available.

As I was taking my shower a massage therapist went through the albergue to ask pilgrims if they wanted a massage. Lisa signed up and was able to get her massage while we headed for dinner.

While we were finishing our dinner in a hotel around the corner Lisa came in to join us...she was glowing and smiling. She loved her massage....1 1-2 hours for 10 euros...$14.50!!!

As we were having our dessert we were all talking about our walk in the morning out of Villar de Mazarife. Vern and I talked about the beautiful sunrise and other aspects of the morning. Lisa started smiling and said that she saw a man sweeping as she was leaving her albergue. A young man sweeping very good!! She was smiling so much and her face getting red...then she told us he was sweeping without clothes. Vern told her that her life will now be defined by b.b. (before broom) and a.b. (after broom).

After dinner I went to my bed. After a short time my leg cramped up....I got down from the top bunk the best I could and went to the bathroom to get hot water to put on my leg. As I was putting hot water on my leg Lisa saw me and came over to see what was going on. She immediately pulled a one dose packet of magnesium out of her fanny pack and told me to take it without water. I went back to bed. Again after falling asleep for a short time my leg felt like it was trying to cramp again. I had remembered seeing two full size mattress pads near the reception area. I thought that I better get off of the top bunk while I could. At the same time I was getting downstairs to the mattress pad another pilgrim was looking for a cooler place to sleep. I had a great nights sleep thanks to friendship and support on the Camino.

Leon to Villar de Mazarife

Clam shell in sidewalk.. Monastery San Marcos

Written on June 11, 2009....14.4 miles.

As we were leaving Leon yellow markers were non-existent. We had to closely look for brass clam shells embedded in the sidewalks. It was dark so we had our headlamps on. We crossed a street and started to head off of the Camino. A gentleman in a truck stopped in the middle of the street and ran over to let us know that we were off the Camino....derecho, derecho!! a San Marcos!! (straight, straight to San Marcos). We didn´t have any idea what San Marcos was. A few blocks later again we weren´t sure where we were....here comes Julia and Gregario from Madrid who we have seen many times before. They speak a little English and we speak a little Spanish...they guided us to San Marcos, an ancient monastery dedicated to St. Mark. It began as a pilgrim hospital in the 12th century, it then became the headquarters of the Knights of the order of Santiago which was formed to protect the pilgrim way. It is now a five star hotel. Gregario asked at the desk if we could go to the courtyard and look at the sculptures. Just the building and grounds would be an experience to explore and spend time at. We are grateful for the glimpse that we had of the art work and interior of San Marcos.

Thank you Julia and Gregario...you gave us a gift of exploration and put us back on the Camino.

Once we were back on the right track we walked for several hours in the suburbs of Leon. There were three Camino options today the recommended and two alternatives. We took the recommended. We walked thru villages and farmland. A great walk to Villar de Mazarife. And again Nicky passed us......we met him soon in a bar.

Once we arrived at Villar de Mazarife we stayed at Tio Pepe´s, an hostal across from a church. We can see many storks on the top of the church from our window.

Vern saw Lisa while she was on the computer downstairs...she invited us to her albergue, Refugio de Jesus. When we arrived Jesus was singing to background music, he was very good. Nicky was staying there also....small Camino. While there we met our first pilgrim from San Francisco, Matt.

I love the location of our hostal across from the main plaza, church, water fountain (fuente) and stork family.