Olveiroa to Finisterre

Written on June 29, 2009.....19.4 miles.

Lighthouse and Coast Guard Station, now

habitociones. Finisterre, (Fisterre, Spain)

Cliffs at the end of the world.

Bronze shoe.

photos courtesy of http://www.ourcamino.com/

This morning we left right at 6 a.m. We are following the book and signs the best we can. The path between Santiago and Finisterre takes concentration and alertness to stay on the Camino. The stone waymarkers are now turned sideways and some tiles are placed on the corners of buildings.

We walked to a point near Hospital, Spain where the route to Muxia separates from the Camino Fisterre. We are going to Finisterre and will just keep heading west. Sometime after the crossroads we get our first view of the Atlantic Ocean...wow....we really are walking to what was considered the end of the world in medieval times. This view of the Atlantic gives me new energy. A few miles later in a very isolated area we find Ermita Nosa Senora Das Neves, a hermitage. There is a shrine that has grown as pilgrims have left personal items of significance to them.

As we keep walking west we are on a path with rock walls to the left that appear to be dividing parcels of land. No evidence of past structures, just divided land. The walls, about four feet high extend for over 100 feet.

Today there is on and off rain so as a result our ponchos are on and off. The temperature is warm.

We soon start to walk down a hill and there is our first sight of Cee, a large town more than half way now to Finisterre. It´s a beautiful town built close to the bay. Orange roofs, white buildings, shiny blue water..... very romantic looking to me.

A few times a truck with a loud speaker went through town....many words in Spanish I did not understand, but two words, Circo Dupey, I heard clearly. Although I heard them I didn´t understand what Circo Dupey was. Then we turned a corner and there in a lot were circus tents and vehicles. If the circus was open I´m sure that Vern would have wanted to check out Circo Dupey.

We walked through and out of Cee. For many miles we could see the point of the peninsula and knew that today we would be near the lighthouse and Faro Fisterre, (the end of the world).

We walked for quite aways on a stone path made through the sand on a beautiful beach. Soon we were guided onto a street and saw a sign for our hostal. We checked in and left our backpacks in our room. We made our way to find the albergue, (no Pilgrim Office here), to receive our second Compestela for walking from Santiago to Finisterre.

As we walked along the main street of Finisterre we saw Christina and Gilda. As we were talking with them Vern looked at the man with them and said is that Ollie? It was! Vern had taken a break with Ollie weeks before while I was walking up a hill. We had spoken of him often since then and another pilgrim had told us that they had met him and he had spoken of us.

How exciting and what a great way to define and celebrate our walk to Finisterre and the completion of the walking part of our Camino. We made plans to meet them for dinner. We continue to the albergue and show our pilgrim passport ro receive our Finisterre Compestela. I am grateful for our health and determination to walk to Finisterre.

Buen Camino

Buen Amigos/Amigas

Buen Vida

Puente Maceira to Olveiroa

Written on June 28, 2009......26 miles.

An Horreo..used for drying corn.

A common sight throughout Galicia.

I´m waking up every morning at 5:30 a.m. and have been for a few weeks now. 6 a.m. is a good time for us to start walking.

This morning when I awoke I opened the shutters and right out side the window was a flood light shining on the waterfall. While I was waking up and mesmerized by the waterfall something went flying by the window so fast I couldn´t identify it. I kept watching and there it went again and again. I finally had to get ready so I stopped watching.

As we left Puente Maceira we crossed the bridge over the Rio Tambre. After a short walk we were guided by our friend, the yellow arrow, to go into the forest. We turned our headlamps on and moved along. Soon we came to a clearing and could see daylight...just at that moment we saw a large silver streak go by just like the one I saw earlier at the window. We realized what it was...a large bat. It was the largest one we had seen. And the lightest in color.

As we continued we reached Negreira, a large town. I enjoyed the walk through town with all of its sculptures and artwork. There were quite a few buildings in this area that have roof tops that look like castles. We walked along taking only essential breaks for food and potty breaks. We brought sandwiches from the hostal.

We knew that today would be a long walk. We were focused on getting to Olverioa, but stayed conscious of how we were doing. As we walked up a path I called to Vern have you ever seen this? The path was going straight through a corn field. I was standing in between two rows of corn.

After walking ten miles we found a bar and it was open. As we drank our coffee Jim walked up and Sybelle right behind him. We had a quick break and kept going.

Sybelle is going to stay here in Vilarserio in a schoolhouse. Our guidebook describes it as basic accomodation with floor space and bathroom. The key is with the family in the red house #39. As we passed the schoolhouse we looked for the red house #39. The house is now blue. Sybelle was still eating when we left...we know we´ll see her tomorrow or the next day on the Camino. We walked for a couple of more hours and entered Villar do Castro, a very small village. The Camino turns left into a farm. At that moment a herd of cows with horns and two farmers came toward us. The cows were walking slowly and both farmers had them in a straight line.

We keep walking to Olveiroa, careful not to stop at Ponte Olveira or to turn right to Olveira. We continued to the hostal that a friend told us about.

When we arrived at the hostal we ordered dinner. I ate macaronis, but was too tired to eat the rest...pork chops and bread.

I asked for the food to be packaged and knew that I would have my lunch for tomorrow.

Santiago to Puente Maceira

Written on June 27, 2009.....11.3 miles.

Puente Maceira..Hostal, large building on right.

photo courtesy of www.roadscholarswa.com

This morning as we were leaving Santiago there were few yellow arrows. At one point we were deciding which way to go. Soon Manuela walks up to us, a pilgrim we met with Lisa. She checked her book and off we went out of Santiago, up a hill and into a suburb. As we reached the summit we turned around to see the first glimpse of the sun highlighting the spires of the Cathedral. Breathtaking is the the only word that comes to mind.

As we were walking we could hear live music at 7 a.m. We remember seeing alot of young people in Santiago dressed in formals. An all night grad party...I enjoyed hearing the music as I walked. Now that we´re on our way to Finisterre or Fisterra there are many more miles in between bars and villages. I prefer Finisterre...to me it represents end...the end of the world. It is recommended to have your food and water with you.

This is definitely the road less travelled.

Great walking weather, cool and overcast. We walked for one hour to the summit of Trasmonte.

One of the tips that Alex had given us was to not go to Negreira today as is recommeded in most Camino guide books. He suggested that we stop at the wonderful hostal-restaurant in Puente Maceira.

When we came around a corner near Puente Maceira there was one of the most beautiful scenes ever...a river with a semi-circle waterfall like a smaller version of Niagra Falls. Right next to the falls is a hostal with decks overlooking the river. We immediateley asked for a room. We checked in, took care of clothes and showers, took a nap and spent some time exploring this wonderful ancient Roman village. We walked over the beautifully restored medieval bridge over the Rio Tambre. Many of the original mansions have been restored. As we walked along the river we discovered two ancient mill houses built in the water. Again, the use of stone slabs to create these mills is mind boggling. We love our room overlooking the water fall.

We were even able to wash our clothes in a machine....what a dream.

At 7 p.m. we had dinner with three other pilgrims: Matt from S.F., Jim from Ireland and Sybelle from Sweden. All English speaking. We had a wonderful dinner of homemade chicken soup, chicken, salad and potatoes in sauce....and the first time in spain, cheesecake. Vern and I even had time to play cards.

A great first day for our adventure to Finisterre.

Lavacolla to Santiago!!

Written on June 26, 2009....6 miles.

Cathedral photo courtesy of http://www.ourcamino.com/

Mass photo courtesy of http://www.pbase.com/lillirod/camino_2004

As we left Lavacolla I was grateful for how far we´ve gone, how healthy and well we are and how many good friends we have made along the way.

We walked into Monte do Gozo. There was a wonderful pilgrim statue tribute.

A little further into San Marcos we had our first glimpse of Santiago.

We have arrived here by putting one foot in front of the other.

Since June, 2008 all if have known is that I would walk the Camino de Santiago to Finisterre via Santiago. I didn´t have any expectations about the walk, I just knew that I would do it and I would be safe and all of my needs would be met. So as we walked down the hill to Santiago I felt that all was in right order and this is exactly where I´m suppose to be. As we moved toward the Oficina de Peregrinos, (Pilgrim Office), we caught sight of the Cathedral. I instantly felt peaceful and knew that I was right where millions of other pilgrims have walked since at least the eigth century. As we hurried along to get to the Pilgrim office an elderly lady asked in Spanish if we needed a room I replied with ¨tenemos cabras¨. A few minutes later I realized that I had told her that we have goats. I was trying to tell her ¨tememos camas¨, we have beds. I was laughing so hard when I realized what I said that shop owners were looking at me.

We found the office of peregrinos and lined up to show our pilgrim passport and receive our Compestela. a credential showing that we walked at least 100 km to Santiago. We walked 749 km (495 miles).

While we were in line I looked at the young woman´s shoulder in front of me..her tattoo read ¨ si queres, puedes¨If you want, you can¨. What a profound message on the shoulder of a woman. No truer statment. a reminder that whenever I set my intention, I achieve it. After our pilgrim passports were scrutinized and we were asked to sign in we were given a Compestela. As I received my Compestela I honored myself for all that I have accomplished in my life. Every person´s Camino is to be honored.

When we first got in line there were about thirty of us. After receiving our Compestelas and congratulating everyone around us we walked by more than a hundred people in line on the stairs. In the line of pilgrims were several pilgrims that we recognized..the three young people that we promised we would see in Santiago, and several others that had passed us many times.

We left the pilgrim office, asked for a map of the city and moved quickly to find the Hostal Alameda where we had a reservation. We just had a few minutes to check in and go back to the area where the Cathedral is for the Pilgrim Mass.

We found two of the last places to sit in the Cathedral. We sat, catching our breath and looking for pilgrims that we know. Soon we saw Pamela from London, and several people that Lisa had walked with and stayed in albergues with.....and then Vern spotted Lisa in another section of the Cathedral! I went over and motioned that we would meet her after the service.

The Mass, naturally was conducted in Spanish. Alot of the formalities and singing was done by a Nun. There were two pilgrims, one fom Germany and one from Spain that spoke. During the service a list of how many pilgrims from each country had received a Compestela and where they had started their pilgrimage was read. As the service went on I realized that it was harder for me to stand each time everyone stood. I was overwhelmed by the beauty of the Cathedral. Also such a large group of pilgrims who achieved their goal and helped others achieve theirs was very moving for me.

At the end of the service the Botafumerio was filled with incense, lit and was swung high from side to side in the Cathedral. It was originally used to fumigate the sweaty and disease- ridden pilgrims. The Botafumerio is not used at every pilgrim service. We felt so fortunate to be there as it was swinging high right over our heads.

After service Lisa showed us where to line up to ¨hug the apostle¨and where to get in line to kneel in front of the casket containing relics of St. James. As we were going from line to line we saw more pilgrim friends. Victor, Javier and a friend of theirs were there. We had previously walked a long way with them. It was so good to see them. I feel such a special bond with these young men. They are gentle souls, good human beings who have added more than they know to my Camino.

We saw Chejuan from Korea, Gobbie from Germany. Several peoople who Vern always seemed to know their names, but I didn´t.

There is such an air of celebration around Santiago...reunions, pilgrims hugging and jumping, and laying on the stone slabs that form the square in front of the west side of the Cathedral.

Since I´ve arrived in Spain I am fascinated with the structures of stone. Stone buildings, stone slabs to form foot bridges over creeks and rivers. Thin vertical pieces of stone especially in Galicia to create boundary lines and fences.

We saw Alcx from Holland who had just returned from Finisterre. He was full of info and good tips for that part of the Camino. We spent some more time with Lisa and then went to our room to settle in and pack up for tomorrow.

Santiago is one of the very special places in the world.

Azura to Lavacolla

Hostal San Paio where we stayed in Lavacolla.....photo courtesy of http://www.ourcamino.com/

Written on June 25, 2009......19 miles.

We carefully made our way down the five flights of stairs and quickly got on the Camino. Once we were about four miles away we looked back to see a thin strip of light caused by the sun rising over Azura.

We walked ten miles before the nearest village. We entered a bar in Salcedo. There was a large screen and on it was a video of the Camino from St. Jean Pied de Port to Finisterre. It was a great video and brought back so many memories of many of the villages and waymarkers along the way.

Each Providence seems to have its own way of letting you know where to proceed on the Camino. One waymarker that is pretty consistent, though, is the yellow arrow. The arrow may be painted on the sidewalk, walls, rocks, back of stop signs, back of any sign, the middle of the road, or just about anywhere. The yellow painted arrow has been such a comfort to me every time I saw it. No matter where I was I knew I was headed to Santiago. Sometimes the yellow arrow would be painted on trees in the middle of forests. So many times I blessed the people that made the effort and took the time to paint the yellow arrow and to put any kind of waymarker on ¨the way¨ for us.

At the Salcedo bar we met a father and son from the United States. The father from Tennessee and the son living in Colorado. We had a great visit with them.

Just a little farther down the road two women peregrinos on horses went by and then tied their horses in a field to go to a bar and take a break.

Many woodland trails today. Also, more bikes today than we have seen on any other part of the Camino.

At one point I saw a young man sitting on the side of the road looking confused...looked about 15. I asked him in Spanish if he was ok. He said yes....I moved on. Further down the road he started to walk by me. He recognized me and starting walking with me. We walked many miles together. We had fun sharing words and phrases...another language lesson.

Right before Lavacolla we saw the three young people from Spain...they were listening to Spanish rap. I used my walking stick as a guitar...we had alot of fun..we told each other that we will meet in Santiago. A great day of walking and sharing our Camino stories with others as we get closer to Santiago.

Used our ponchos briefly today.

Palas de Rei to Arzua

Written on June 24, 2009.....18.4 miles

Waymarker Arzua

We left Palas de Rei at our usual time..6 a.m. As we walked for awhile we realized that we had not seen a waymarker or any pilgrims. We decided to turn around and find the last waymarker. We then realized that we had turned right instead of left. We continued on the Camino. A short way later we found two girls sitting at the edge of the path. One of the girls looked sick. They spoke Spanish. I asked her, es usted inferma? Si. At that moment a couple from Potrugal came by...we knew that they spoke Spanish and some English. They spoke to the girls. They discovered that the girls´ teacher was ahead on the Camino. The woman suggested that the girls call the teacher and start walking slowly toward the teacher. About three hours later we saw the girls and teacher walking quickly. Both girls looked fine and waved at us. Today we walked through several eucalyptus groves. As we passed through the town of Melide we realized that their specialty is pulpo (octopus). We saw octopus everywhere....sitting on the table as you walked into a cafe, in the window, and in large tanks.

Right before we entered the downtown area we met a group of young people from Virginia who were walking the Camino for six days. As we were taking a break in Melide our friend, Ron came along. He had hurt his foot getting down off a top bunk in an albergue. He was deciding how far to walk and thinking about going to a farmacia.

The weather today was mild and cool..perfect for walking many miles. We arrived in Azura around 4 p.m.. Hostels and pensions were filling up fast. I stayed focused and knew that we would find the perfect bed for Vern and the perfect bed for me. As I was moving quickly on the Camino I noticed a side street with three pensions. We asked the owner of Meson do Peregrino if he had a room...he said compleato....but then said just a moment...are you married? Yes...ok he took us up five flights of stairs and said you´re on the fourth floor....22 euros. We are so grateful for our room.

Portomarin to Palas de Rei

Pilgrim Statue Palas de Rei Photo courtesy of http://www.ourcamino.com/

Written on June 23, 2009.....16.2 miles.

We left Portomarin down the same stairs that we climbed two days ago to arrive here. Crossed over a bridge and started a gradual ascent toward the summit, Sierra Ligonde...2,362 feet. I realize that it must sound like all we do each day is climb mountains and go up and up. The reality is that the inclines take alot more effort for me so I tend to give those parts of the path more emphasis. With every incline starting with the Pyrenees I´ve had to stay focused and keep moving... drawing on mantras and whatever is close at hand to draw strength from. Butterflies, flowers, wheat, corn, grapes, etc. We decided to stay two days in Portomarin to rest up and be ready for the next two days of high mileage walking...today at 16.2 miles being one of them. We limited our bar breaks for coffee and thankfully had cool, overcast weather.

As we moved between Ligonde and Palas de Rei we walked with two young women from a college in Madrid.Sometime later we walked with two young men from Madrid, Javier and Victor. Victor was more talkative of the two young men. They knew some English words and for miles we had fun piecing together conversations about everything from how many years a part between Javier and his brother to their favorite futbol teams. It was amazing how long they walked with us and even took a break with us.

While we took our break along came Ron from Australia...73 years who has walked the Camino before...as he walked past us Javier and Victor couldn´t believe that Ron was walking faster than us. I think the Camino is so good for Victor and Javier and everyone on the Camino...it´s a snapshot of the diversity of cultures, languages, age, ideas and lifestyles.

We arrive in Palas de Rei, a large town, now we are fifty nine miles from Santiago. We quickly find a room and get something to eat. There is a celebration/ fish fry in the plaza with some great music.

Stay in Portomarin

Church of San Nicolas.......photo courtesy of http://www.pbase.com-lillirod-profile/

Written on June 22, 2009.

Wow...slept in until 8 a.m. Went downstairs for coffee and toast...this is living! Soon we realize that several pilgrims we know are now arriving from the albergue they stayed at 5 k behind us. Lisa, Ron, and Pamela, arrive. We spend time with them. We visit for a while. I love sharing what we have seen and experienced since the last time we were together.

Several pilgrims are going to the cash machines in Portomarin. There is a big rush to get money before we move on. There are not that many places to get cash. We all seem to be getting the maximum amount and out of the three machines in town, two are out of money.

There is definitely an energy of excitement as we all know that we are less than 100k to Santiago. Lisa and Pam continue on, Ron looks for an albergue here in Portamarin. Vern and I head to the cyber cafe. We are grateful for our decision to rest today. Before we go to the cyber cafe we see the family with the toddler. When Vern asked the father how they made it through the stream with the granite long stepping stones he said that two other pilgrims helped him carry the trailer through the stream.

We took a long nap. I kept checking to see if the church of San Nicolas was open. It was open around 6 p.m. I went right over to get my stamp, but instead a group of young men were chanting. The door was open, several pilgrims were inside. so we entered quietly. After several minutes the men started singing...it was one of those unplanned,beautiful, moments that can only happen when I slow down long enough to be present.

After the men finished singing and chanting I noticed that a few people were walking down the middle of the church to the back. I followed them and received a stamp for my pilgrim passport.

As we started thinking about dinner we saw a pilgrim we had met a few days before. He asked us to join him. Tom from San Francisco. He started out walking in the first few days, but had trouble with his ankles and decided to continue on with a bicycle. He has a great sense of humor and we always enjoy running into him. We hear about him from time to time from others who let us know anytime they meet other Americans on the Camino.

San Mamede do Camino to Portomarin

Written on June 21, 2009.....16.1 miles. The bridge into Portomarin.
Photo courtesy of http://www.ourcamino.com/
The path was fairly level until we arrived at Sarria and climbed many stairs to reach the old section and past the Church of Santa Marina. As we walked through the Medieval Center and out of Sarria to cross a bridge and move into the country we noticed many more pilgrims than we normally do at 7:30 in the morning. I then remembered that Sarria is 118 k (73 miles) from Santiago. A Compestela (certificate of completion) is given when a pilgrim presents a pilgrim passport stamped at 100 k or more. Although we walked through Sarria with many more pilgrims we were soon alone making our way to a Romanesque church in Velante. Yes, the church was open! Now as we are close to 100 k we also need to be mindful to get two sellos (stamps) a day on our pilgrim passports. We always receive one a day at an albergue, hostal, hotel, or pension. We now will add one from a church, cathedral, or bar.
As we have entered the Providence of Galicia we notice less storks, and now churches are surrounded by yards with crypts. As we leave the church our path is now in a stream. Long granite stepping stones have been placed in the center of the stream and with walking sticks in hand we carefully make our way on the stones consciously not to get our boots wet.

We stop at Ferreiros a small village with a great restaurant/ bar and order food for our lunch. Within an hour of leaving Ferreiros we want to find a shady place to nap. We don´t, instead I quickly let the three hard candies in my pocket melt in my mouth. Vern and I encourage each other to keep hydrated and to keep going as the day is getting hotter. We continue through Vilacha a small village. No life visible. Then we come to a long bridge over the river, the wind is blowing and the air is cool off the river. In front of us are many stairs to Portomarin. I take a deep breath and start the climb without looking up. Soon I am at the top. A pilgrim who started earlier in the day seems to be having trouble catching her breath and is being attended to . We head to the plaza where the Church of San Nicolas is and find our pension.

We check in and soon we´re taking a nap. When I wake up Vern is gone. He soon comes back to let me know that Colby, Shannon, and Talis are downstairs at the outdoor cafe in front of our pension. I want to see them, but remember that I made them a promise. I told them that I would write a rap for them as soon as I could. So before I go downstairs and not quite awake I start a rap for them.

When I see them I let them know that it is just the beginning of the rap and I will complete it later. I ask Colby for his hat so I can put it on backwards.

On the internet in the cafe..

you´re from California, Ay?

And you´re from Canada in

Carrion de los Condes?

I´m Vern, that´s Nancy,

that´s Liz, Shannon, I´m Colby.

One foot larger than another...

shoes hurt like a Mother!!
We´re moving down the road
to hook up with Talis...
in Leon we´ll deal with this mess...
to be continued...
As Vern and I explore the town we discover Iglesia San Pedro at the end of town with the original doorway. It is a chapel compared to the larger church in town. There is a beautiful park near the chapel. It is a good place to sit and enjoy a good rest.

Triacastela to San Mamede do Camino

Vern, Me, and Lisa on the Camino

Written on June 20, 2009.....13.6 miles.

There was a choice to make this morning. Go left and walk by the river or go right and walk along a highway. The river route is about three to four miles longer....no brainer...river route. As we were walking into the village of Samos there was a string across our path. We hesitated, turned to the pilgrim behind us and asked if he spoke English. He said a little, I´m from Hungary. I asked him if he had seen a yellow arrow...he motioned to continue under the string and off we went. Before the first turn about thirty feet I saw a herd of several large steer running toward us without any room on either side of the path. I turned and ran and told Vern and our companion to do the same. As I safely got on the other side of the string, (the cattle made a turn to the right and not straight where the string was), I noticed that Vern was not running quickly and had a steer horn about three feet from his butt...I yelled to get moving and he did. It´s not easy to run with a full pack on your back, but we made it!!! We were so relieved that we couldn´t stop laughing about the horns near Vern´s butt and the gate made out of string that held back about 33 tons of steer. We were not sure when to proceed so we waited awhile longer and two more steer went around the curve to the right. We kept waiting for the farmer and didn´t see one. Several yards down the trail was a small elderly lady with a stick guiding a stray up the trail.

The three of us walked into Samos. As we got closer we saw Monasterio de Samos. An enormous Monastery in a small village. One of the reasons we took this route was because of the Monastery. We stopped and had coffee.....a few minutes later Lisa and her new friend Ron, from Australia came toward us and we invited them to join us. After I finished my coffee I felt a strong urge to move toward the Monastery...I left everyone and walked the short distance to the entrance. Once in the monastery office to receive a stamp on my pilgrim passport I overheard a pilgrim offer the Priest 50 euros so that he could go inside the main Monastery sanctuary. The Priest said that if he waits ten minutes he can buy a ticket for 3 euros. Oh my gosh...I thought, I want to go inside...I bought two tickets...right then Vern, Lisa and Ron came in I told them to get ready if they want to go inside. I was so entranced by the artwork and construction of the Monastery that I lost track of time, but I believe we were in there for an hour. The tour guide spoke in very fast Spanish, but just seeing everything was more than worth the time to just be there.

A short way out of Samos there was another decision to be made. Go straight next to a highway for awhile or into the countryside. We chose the countryside. As we were taking a break near a chapel with a graveyeard Lisa came up...we walked with her for a few hours until we reached San Mamede do Camino. It is described in Lisa´s book as a wonderful albergue in the middle of nowhere with good food and great rooms. We arrived around 4:30 p.m..checked in. Vern, Lisa, and I played cards for awile then we had a great communal vegetarian meal. After our meal I saw the family that I had seen in Hornillos del Camino eight days ago. At that time I thought they were on bicycles, with the father pulling their toddler in a trailer. What I discovered in San Mamede is that the father is pushing a cart designed for the child. The child is healthy and happy and well taken care of. I visited with them for a while and found out that it is not easy for them to find accomodations everyday so sometimes they set up the tent that they brought. Their son has his own Pilgrim Passport. They make every effort for their son to be comfortable and happy during their journey on the Camino.

Laguna de Castilla to Triacastela

Shannon, Colby, and Talis

Written on June 19, 2009.....13.6 miles.

Last night as we were getting ready for bed we heard bells right under our window...beautiful cows being herded down the road. Shortly after that more bells and now a herd of sheep are walking by. Right after dinner Vern and I were sitting in front of the Hostal where we were staying, talking with two women from Germany. A dog walked to the back of my chair and started to lift his leg. I saw him out of the corner of my eye and jumped with the chair...moved just in time to avoid getting wet. Another opportunity for a good laugh.

We left Laguna de Castilla and....yes! walked up and up again for at least an hour until we reached O´Cebreiro. O´Cebreiro is the first village in the Providence of Galicia. Galicia is the providence that Santiago is in.

As we reached O´Cebreiro the scene was magical. Large straw roof pallozas, a ninth century church and in the valley below a blanket of fog. The feeling of peace was so overwhelming that I needed to sit and be in this beautiful place without thought or movement.

We continued along and enjoyed the beautiful views and nice dirt path. After awhile we stopped again at a bar and out of the bathroom, here comes Lisa! We had stayed in different villages and now meet again. We walked along through village after village. In one of the villages we passed a stone cutter in the road, cutting stone for a walkway.

The weather was cooler today and more downhill than in recent days. Somewhere before Triacastela I was being passed on the right by a Pilgrim...as I turned my head to greet them with ¨Buen Camino¨, I recognized Colby....I yelled....so surprised to see them. Shannon was with him and also Talis who we had not met before. Talis thought I was yelling about a snake or some danger. We soon had a good laugh, thoroughly happy to see each other. We had not seen Colby and Shannon since Terradillos de los Templarios about twelve days before. Colby and Shannon met Talis coming in from the U.K. in Leon. We all walked along heading to Triacastela talking about where we´ve been and what we have seen. Vern and I are excited to be with our friends and that we all have healthy feet and bodies.

Minute by minute surrender takes the place of expectations. As I put one foot in front of the other I know that all is as it should be and I am blessed with all that I need and with company of fellow pilgrims that I love to be with.

We all had a wonderful meal together...Lisa, Colby, Shannon, Talis, Vern and I . We enjoyed the high quality of the food and the warmth of being with people that have a connection that can hardly be described, let along be understood.

After we all said our Buen Caminos Lisa, Vern and I walked to a nearby chapel.

The Priest rushed right up to Vern and spoke in Spanish very quickly...I said, No entiendo, hablo ingles, he quickly left to the back and returned with his spiritual perception of the Camino in English. It is so moving and wonderful that I will take it with me and contemplate the message.

Today we have a real treat at our hostal....our own clothesline on our own enclosed porch! Life is good.

Trabadelo to Laguna de Castilla

A Palloza

Written on June 18, 2009......10.9 miles.

Leaving Trabadelo we walked along the highway for awhile. A wall had been built to protect walkers. There were many villages today within two to three miles of each other. We took a break at a panaderia, (bakery) and had coffee and toast. Sometime later Vern stopped at a bar to use the bathroom. As he was in the bar I walked to the chapel next door...it was closed. As we were leaving I noticed the door was open so I went in...no one inside, but a few candles burning and a place to light your own candle and leave a donation. Also there was a stamp, pad, and a pen for those who would like a stamp, (sello), from the chapel. We started a slow climb up another mountain toward La Faba, a place we thought we might stay at. As we were making our way toward La Faba we were on a very narrow trail with brush on both sides. I started to hear yelling and bells...soon coming right at us were huge beautiful cows with horns. One young man and a dog were guiding about seven huge cows down the mountain. I quickly moved into the brush and was so grateful to be that close to the animals. I thought they were bulls but Vern had looked more closely and decided that they were cows with horns.

Soon we came to La Faba and decided that we felt good enough to keep going to the next village. We continued up the mountain. As we walked there was less shade. We found out later it was 95 degrees. We did very well and reached the village of Laguna de Castilla. Just on the right while entering the village was a Palloza, the first one we have seen. A traditional structure with a straw roof, built in the round.

We arrived at noon and asked for a room. One albergue/cafe in the village. She said that she had a private room available. As we entered the room I went to the window....beautiful view of the valley and just as I thought we were right in the middle of a farm.

As I went out to check my clothes on the clothesline a woman guided a horse right through the clothes and into a field where her husband was waiting with a wooden plow to attach to the horse and proceeded to plow the field.

Today at the albergue I met a young woman from Fairfax, California. It was good to talk with her and both share our experiences so far on the Camino.

This albergue is filling quickly. I love this village with its flies and animals. No phone or internet. The owner of the albergue goes to the garden to pick vegetables for the meals that she prepares.

I feel blessed to be here. As I offer to pay right away, the woman says tranquilamente. And I say muy bueno.

Cacabelos to Trabadelo

Pilgrim Statue La Portela de Valcarce...outside of Trabadelo

photo courtesy of http://www.ourcamino.com/
Written on June 17, 2009.....11.7 miles.
Last night we had dinner with Lisa and Mariela, (not sure of spelling). Mariela is on a bicycle from Logrono to Santiago. She has already faced challenge and circumstance on the Camino that shows her courage and conviction.
We had a great sleep. At 5:30 a.m. this morning the resident storks that live on the Albergue church started their beak noises that can be very loud. A natural wake up call!
Vern and I left and started walking at 6 a.m.. It was a beautiful walk through vineyards and villages. As we entered Villafranca del Bierz we saw Mariela as she was passing us on her bike.
While taking a break at a sidewalk cafe in Villafranca an awareness came to me: sometimes when I was working I would visualize Vern and I sitting at a sidewalk cafe in a small village somewhere in the world. Here we were in the present time fulfilling that vision not only together but with the support and love of others.

As we were having our coffee Lisa was entering the plaza. Each person on the Camino plays a vital part just as in life. Lisa is a strong presence and unconditionally gives of her time and talents.

Many people in the plaza were discussing which one of the paths they would take today from Villafranca del Bierzo to Trabadelo. Our book recommended the path over the mountain. When we arrived at the place to make our decision: up the mountain, or through the valley next to the highway I was ¨pulled¨to take the path over the mountain.

As we walked up the mountain the views from there were incredible: wide valleys, mountain-top ruins, mountain range after mountain range, (we counted nine in a row), and Villafranca. We truly were in the wilderness in Spain.

After three hours of walking up the mountain it was getting hotter and hotter. I became concerned about myself when I realized I was sucking on the top of my walking stick to get water. I immediately drank some water and electrolyte supplement and ate some hard candy.

All through the mountain Vern was seeing beautiful green lizards, he thinks they were chameleons.

Once we climbed to the summit the trail started winding through hilltop orchards and down into the village. We walked directly to the municipal albergue and picked out our beds. We walked through the village and found the albergue that Lisa is staying in.

We had a great dinner in a restaurant near Lisa´s albergue.

As we were leaving the restaurant Lisa was talking about having breakfast early in the morning. The owner heard her and told her that he opened at 6:30 a.m. Lisa said that she wanted to leave earlier than that. He said good, I will open at 6:00 a.m.! Wow, that´s service!

Ponferrada to Cacabelos

Written on June 16, 2009......10.5 miles.

The picture is Albergue-Parroquia to the right,

Capilla de las Angustia to the right. Seventy cubicles with two beds in each cubicle.

There are many pilgrims leaving Ponferrada this morning around 6:30 a.m.

We pass a small chapel, Ermita son Blas. I have to stop to look at the colorful mural.

As we enter Camponaraya we notice a pilgrim with a dog going the other way!

Another pilgrim who is making the return pilgrimage from Santiago!

As of today we have seen our fourth pilgrim cart. We´ve also seen a pilgrim carrying a trolley on his back with his backpack. One thing about the Camino is no matter how you do it, how fast you walk it or if you use transportation other than your feet it is your Camino and judgements on the Camino are slim to none. As we entered Cacabelos today three young women who started today from Ponferrada started singing in front of us. When they stopped I said loudly, mas musica por favor, more music please. They immediately started singing again. They sound great.

Cacabelos is a friendly village. We arrived at 11:30 a.m. and the alburgue will open at 12 noon. We are staying at Albergue Parroquia at an 18 th century Capilla de las Angustia chapel. Six euros per person. Our room has two beds, storage for backpacks and a light. There are showers and a place to wash and hang clothes. we know that Lisa is walking here today, too.

El Acebo to Ponferrada

Castillo de los Templarios..Ponferrada photo courtesy of www.ourcamino.com

Written on June 15, 2009....10.2 miles.

As we were leaving the village in the morning I noticed the sign, ¨Leaving El Acebo¨. Leaving El Acebo? I thought we were in Riego de Ambros!!

We were guided to a wonderful mountain village in spite of ourselves. Later when we shared our story with Nicky, he said, ¨that was a strange thing to happen to people that don´t drink¨.

As we entered Riego de Ambros, 3.7 miles down the road, we were grateful that we were confused! We loved El Acebo. As we left Riego de Ambros the path we were on changed from large slabs of slate-granite to variuous sizes and shapes of petrified wood.

The last two days have been on beautiful mountain paths . Although we had already walked through the Pyrenees in the first two days it was foggy and our view obscured. Yesterday and today have been clear. As the sun rose we were able to see an hidden village in the distance, serene and isolated.

As we entered Molinaseca I stopped....Iglesia de las Angustias had been built up against steep cliffs. We then crossed a medieval bridge across the River Meruelo.

We have noticed more and more pilgrims in recent days. Some pilgrims start in large cities where bus and train connections are possible.

As we left Molinaseca we climbed for a while. At the summit Ponferrado was in clear view...the newer section to the left...the old section to the right. We headed for the main plaza and clock tower, on the left was Castillo de los Templarios...a beautiful castle on the highest point of the city. We found a room and settled in. Around 7:30 p.m. we started looking for a restaurant. Vern had spotted a Mexican restaurant...the first one we have seen in Spain. As we headed for the restaurant we heard, ¨have you had your supper yet? It was Nicky...we thought he had already left. We were so glad to see him. We sat with him and ordered dinner. We all discussed our walk from Astorga and the beauty of the mountain path.

We know that tomorrow he leaves the Camino and heads home to England. We´ve enjoyed every moment with him from the first time he and Luke passed us on the Camino before Fromista. He would pass us then a few hours later we would see him in a village or in a bar on the way to the village.

Although we did not spend much time walking with Nicky we always came to life when we would see him in an albergue or village. He would get to the villages so early that he would have his pick of beds and would always try to get a private corner to himself. We always would listen to his opinion of where to eat or where the tienda, (store), was because he would have plenty of time to explore the village or city. There are many people on the Camino but there are those who we feel a connection with and just by contact with them made the miles go faster and the sun less harsh. Nicky is one of those people.

Buen Life Nicky!

After our dinner with Nicky we walked with him to his albergue and saw Lisa...they both took us to the Chapel on the grounds, near the ruins of a monastery.

We enjoyed our walk through Ponferrada with its variety of art and architecture, ancient and new.

Rabanal del Camino to El Acebo

Pictures.Refugio in Manjarin and a house in El Acebo where people live upstairs, animals downstairs.

Written on June 14, 2009.....10.5 miles.

As we left Rabanal we climbed higher and higher. I took my time and looked back over the beautiful valley to see the sunrise. Soon we came to Foncebadon, a very small village with a welcoming feel and again an albergue/bar with incense and great music. We took a break and readied ourselves for the climb to Cruz de Ferro at 4,940 feet. We had read about Cruz de Ferro and had seen it in a video. Marking the spot is a tall pole with an iron cross of top. Cruz de Ferro has become a place for pilgrims to reflect on their journey, bless themselves and others , leave a rock from home...(Vern left a rock from a beach in Crescent City), or any token of love. It is a place to do whatever you are moved to do. A short way down the path there was a pile of rocks with a cross. Being the only one there I spent a moment to thank all who have been on my path with me, have crossed my path, and have walked with me throughout my life. As we started down the mountain we came to Manjarin. Manjarin really can´t be called a village. The first sight of Manjarin is a hut-like structure that looks like a beehive. A short way, approx 75 feet is an refugio with an outhouse across the road. The view from this mountain hideaway is phenomenal. I am so grateful to be viewing it. As I enter the refugio, the hospitalier is ringing a bell. Our friend, Lisa, later told us that he rings the bell every hour so that pilgrims find their way. I love the atmosphere here, I love the energy, I love the funkiness, the honesty. At that moment I know that whatever I had ever perceived as hip, was not. This is HIP! I tried to express my feelings to two pilgrims from Germany...they just kept looking at my hips and laughing. At least I know what I mean.

So as we carefully continued down the mountain we entered a village and checked into our room at a Casa Rural.

As we were checking in the owner told us that today there is a big festival. We showered, washed our clothes and left to explore the village.

Soon a procession emerged from the church. Every person that had attended Mass was in the procession. The Father was in the front under a canopy held by four people. Every few feet someone would throw rose petals. An elderly gentleman walked slowly playing the flute. As soon as the procession circled the village they went back into the church. Several people brought out food for the village, visitors and pilgrims. As the festivities, live music and fireworks continued throughout the evening I layed in bed with windows wide open....resting my body, mind, and spirit for the next day of walking.

Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

The Cowboy Bar in El Ganso....to the right is where we met the bicyclists.

Written on June 13, 2009.....13.3 miles.

Again while leaving another city we were confused by the lack of waymarkers. Just at that moment Julia and Gregario came by as they had done several times before.

Each time we would see them I could feel the connection between the four of us become stronger.

This morning in their deliberate, slow Spanish..(for our benefit) they let us know that they were finishing this phase of their Camino and would be going back home to Madrid.

The communication between the four of us had been accomplished with our limited Spanish, their limited English and a true desire between us all to convey and receive friendship.

Vern and I continued on taking a break in El Ganso. I was noticing that the last couple of villages had an "Eastern" feel to them. One village had an homeopathic Doctor. Another village had a bar that was playing East Indian music and burning incense.

As we were taking our break in El Ganso a group of pilgrims on bicycles from Belgium stopped to talk with us. As we were all sharing where we were from and where we started the Camino their support vehicle pulled up. As introductions were being made one of the bicyclists introduced the older gentleman in the vehicle as the Pope. The gentleman being introduced as the Pope seemed to enjoy it and proceeded to "bless" our feet. The driver jumped out and wanted to take a picture of us to show others what people from California are doing.

As we were walking into Rabanal a herd of sheep were crossing the road, we waited and then proceeded into the village. The hostals were filling up so we continued further into the village. We found one in the center of the village. The hospitalier was very friendly and showed us where to wash and hang out our clothes. Our room was on Calle Mayor, (the main street). We had a beautiful view of the mountains and we could see pilgrims as they were coming into the village.

As I was hanging out my clothes I heard music coming from a chapel. I went inside and enjoyed the music and the beauty of the chapel.

Lisa was staying in the same village. She spent some time with us while we were finishing our dinner. We asked her how life was "after the broom". She laughed and said life is good.

Villar de Mazarife to Astorga

View of Plaza Cathedral in Astorga.

Written on June 12, 2009....18.7 miles.

We left at 6 a.m. and were shedding clothes by 9 a.m. We walked many miles before we found a bar....walked over the longest rock bridge yet, (Puente de Orbigo), Rio Orbigo. This beautiful bridge dates from the 13th century and was built over an older existing Roman bridge.

We started taking more breaks due to the heat. Our friend Lisa was walking along as we were taking a break, we continued into Astorga with her.

When we arrived in San Justo de la Vegas I took my shirt off and held it under a water fount......put it quickly back on and enjoyed being cooled down. We went to the nearest bar and I ordered my first descafenado con hielo, (iced coffee).

Vern and I continued to Astorga, Lisa moved ahead to find the albergue.

We walked through plazas and past shops to find the albergue, St. Javier. We found two top bunks that were available.

As I was taking my shower a massage therapist went through the albergue to ask pilgrims if they wanted a massage. Lisa signed up and was able to get her massage while we headed for dinner.

While we were finishing our dinner in a hotel around the corner Lisa came in to join us...she was glowing and smiling. She loved her massage....1 1-2 hours for 10 euros...$14.50!!!

As we were having our dessert we were all talking about our walk in the morning out of Villar de Mazarife. Vern and I talked about the beautiful sunrise and other aspects of the morning. Lisa started smiling and said that she saw a man sweeping as she was leaving her albergue. A young man sweeping very good!! She was smiling so much and her face getting red...then she told us he was sweeping without clothes. Vern told her that her life will now be defined by b.b. (before broom) and a.b. (after broom).

After dinner I went to my bed. After a short time my leg cramped up....I got down from the top bunk the best I could and went to the bathroom to get hot water to put on my leg. As I was putting hot water on my leg Lisa saw me and came over to see what was going on. She immediately pulled a one dose packet of magnesium out of her fanny pack and told me to take it without water. I went back to bed. Again after falling asleep for a short time my leg felt like it was trying to cramp again. I had remembered seeing two full size mattress pads near the reception area. I thought that I better get off of the top bunk while I could. At the same time I was getting downstairs to the mattress pad another pilgrim was looking for a cooler place to sleep. I had a great nights sleep thanks to friendship and support on the Camino.

Leon to Villar de Mazarife

Clam shell in sidewalk.. Monastery San Marcos

Written on June 11, 2009....14.4 miles.

As we were leaving Leon yellow markers were non-existent. We had to closely look for brass clam shells embedded in the sidewalks. It was dark so we had our headlamps on. We crossed a street and started to head off of the Camino. A gentleman in a truck stopped in the middle of the street and ran over to let us know that we were off the Camino....derecho, derecho!! a San Marcos!! (straight, straight to San Marcos). We didn´t have any idea what San Marcos was. A few blocks later again we weren´t sure where we were....here comes Julia and Gregario from Madrid who we have seen many times before. They speak a little English and we speak a little Spanish...they guided us to San Marcos, an ancient monastery dedicated to St. Mark. It began as a pilgrim hospital in the 12th century, it then became the headquarters of the Knights of the order of Santiago which was formed to protect the pilgrim way. It is now a five star hotel. Gregario asked at the desk if we could go to the courtyard and look at the sculptures. Just the building and grounds would be an experience to explore and spend time at. We are grateful for the glimpse that we had of the art work and interior of San Marcos.

Thank you Julia and Gregario...you gave us a gift of exploration and put us back on the Camino.

Once we were back on the right track we walked for several hours in the suburbs of Leon. There were three Camino options today the recommended and two alternatives. We took the recommended. We walked thru villages and farmland. A great walk to Villar de Mazarife. And again Nicky passed us......we met him soon in a bar.

Once we arrived at Villar de Mazarife we stayed at Tio Pepe´s, an hostal across from a church. We can see many storks on the top of the church from our window.

Vern saw Lisa while she was on the computer downstairs...she invited us to her albergue, Refugio de Jesus. When we arrived Jesus was singing to background music, he was very good. Nicky was staying there also....small Camino. While there we met our first pilgrim from San Francisco, Matt.

I love the location of our hostal across from the main plaza, church, water fountain (fuente) and stork family.

Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon

Main Square in Leon

Written on June 10, 2009.....11.6 miles.

We slept in until 6:15 a.m......got ready and took off. Soon after we started walking our friend Nicky passed us and told us that he is moving so quickly that he will have to stay somewhere for a day. We will see him in a couple of days.

We had good cool walking weather, a couple of minutes of rain but not enough to put our ponchos on. We met a pilgrim today who has walked from Austria and one pilgrim walking east. I couldn´t believe it...he said he had walked to Santiago and was now going back to Burgos.

We have seen many stork nests today. We walked on a hill by a chapel and could see babies in the nest. There were alot less pilgrims in the Meseta and during the rain two days ago. More and more pilgrims now in Leon.

We had called ahead to get a room near the Correos, (Post Office). Another successful pick up of health supplements that I had mailed to myself on May 12th from Gasquet.

We are doing well, but even I can´t deny that taking a two hour nap after we find our bed each day is vital. We settled in today in Leon and walked around to see the beautiful Cathedrals and went inside a church.

Our room is across from a twenty foot Roman wall.

Before we went to dinner we walked through old town to find the Camino. We ran into our friends Lisa and Christine. They were having a snack at a bar at a sidewalk table. We have fun talking with them....always laughing.

Bercianos del Real Camino to Mansilla de las Mulas

Virgen Del Camino on the way to Mansilla de las Mulas

Written on June 9, 2009....16.3 miles.

As we left the monastery this morning a pilgrim couple looked confused. As we came along with our headlamps on, (unconsciously blinding them), we told them to follow us. We had checked out the way back to the Camino before going to bed. Although the village was very small all streets seemed to lead to a store or the bar. They followed us and then walked with us for awhile. Then off they went.

Alot of miles in between villages today.

When we arrived in Mansilla de las Mulas today we started to look for La Delicias, a hostal that was mentioned in our book. We saw the name of the hostal but it did not seem to be open. We went to the next building and tried that hostal. They had a room.

After Vern had taken his shower he was looking out our window onto the street. He happened to see Nicky on the street below. He yelled to Nicky. Nicky could see that Vern was wrapping himself with the curtain because he had just come out of the shower. In his very wonderful Irish accent Nicky said, ¨Come out onto the balcony Vern¨.

Nicky, Colby, and Shannon were all staying at the albergue next door. Vern had asked Nicky to let Colby and Shannon know that he wanted to take a picture of them.

Our room was not easy to find and they weren´t able to locate us.

We know that we will see them further down the Camino.

Before we had gone to dinner we found a panderia, (bakery with coffee) and saw Julia and Gregorio who we had been seeing the last few days. They are a friendly couple from Madrid who we converse with in our little bit of Spanish and their little bit of English.

Terradillos de los Templarios to Bercianos del Real Camino

Adobe wall ruins are a familiar sight along the camino.

Written on June 8, 2009.....14.8 miles.

Last night we had a good dinner at the albergue with three young people from Canada.....Colby, Shannon, and Liz. We met them at a pandareia in Carrion de los Condes.

Free internet at this albergue. They offered a private room with toliet and shower for 32 euros...we grabbed it.

At dinner I had mentioned the awesome labyrinth that we had seen at one of the previous summits. A couple of people at dinner had mentioned that they had not seen a labyrinth. We had not even walked 1 1-2 miles this morning when on the right of the path was a labyrinth...about 8 feet in diameter.

Today on our way into Sahagun we had to use our ponchos...so grateful to have them. It rained for about two hours. By the time we arrived in Sahagun we were ready for a coffee. We found a great cafe with many pilgrims coming in from the rain. As soon as we had our coffees and a good visit we went outside to find that the sun was coming out and we could put our ponchos away.

A short while later as we were entering a small village I saw what looked like a small mountain...which it was...it was also a house with four doors, a chimney, and a t.v. antenna, (a true hobbit house). Many houses in this providence, (Palencia), are made out of earth, or in a small hill, or made out of sod and straw.

There was a high wind today that took special effort and mantras. Today´s mantra was Thank you Spirit for the cleansing wind.

When we reached our destination, Bercianos del Real Camino we immediately followed the arrows to the albergue. We´re staying in a Parish hostel in a large room with twenty cots and several surrounding rooms with many bunk beds.

This albergue is truly authentic....very old...with handhewn wood staircase and logs. The village is very authentic as well. We walked into a bar thick with smoke. The only women in there were me and the two young women behind the counter. Many men were playing dominos and yelling out numbers....treinta, cuarenta...30 and 40....I assume those were winnings that they were racking up. I loved it.

Many times while travelling it is hard to really get in touch with the local flavor...this was definitely it.

The beds and dinner are donation in the tradition of the Medieval pilgrimages.

There were two large tables for a communal dinner. Some pilgrims were asked to help with preparing the meal and serving it.

It was a great time. Everyone introduced themselves and the country they are from. There was about four of us from the United States.

We heard about a pilgrim who has walked from Moscow. By the time he reaches Santiago he will have walked 4,000 kms. (2,400 miles).

Carrion de los Condes to Terradillos de los Templarios

The red poppies and various wild flowers have guided our way for weeks.

Written on June 7, 2009.....16.6 miles.

As of today we have been on the Camino for three weeks. Two days off...one in Pamplona and one in Fromista. We have walked 225 miles. All mileage is calculated from the book that we are using as a guide. I intentionally left my pedometer in Estella. It was taking up too much room in my pocket.

Today we walked eleven miles before we reached a village. We had food with us. Nick and Luke passed us on the Camino. Luke had bought new sandals to walk in to give his toes a break. So far he was doing well.

I am grateful for the cool weather to walk in. I seem to have much more stamina in the cooler weather. Today we walked many miles on rocks and dirt to asphalt and pavement. We´ve really hit a stride. We´re arriving in most villages earlier than we thought we would.....we do leave at 6 a.m. The book that we are using only showed one albergue in Terradillos de los Templarios. When we arrived we found a brand new one at the entrance of the village.

Many villages are busy building and opening albergues and bars in anticipation of 2010, a Holy year. The expected number of pilgrims is 250,000. Four million people are expected to go to Santiago to see the Pope on July 25, 2010.