Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

A typical albergue room.

Written on May 28, 2009 13 miles

We walked a few miles to Azofra, a small village. We found a bar and .....wah, lah!

Many people that we know. Mathias, from Germany, is a young man that we met last night. Mathias, (pronounced Matias), was wearing an Obama Rocks shirt. He speaks very good English. When we saw him in the bar he gave me his email address to send him inauguration pictures.

I have to say that today can only be described as perfect...perfect walking conditions, wonderful people. Surroundings that could not truly be captured in any other form but with one´s eye. It´s impossible to count the hues of green. The lighting on ruins, vineyards and mountains makes it more beautiful.

As we approached Cireuña at the summit of a mountain there was a park built especially for pilgrims. There we found Monica and Sonia sunbathing in bikinis! They must be wearing their bikinis under their hiking clothes....smart women!

Cirueña is one of the few areas where we have seen a golf course. One of the pilgrims walked ahead. We saw him some time later hitting golf balls at the driving range.

As I´m thinking of it I want to talk about the personal victories that I experience as I walk. A sore toe or a twinge in my back indicates that it´s time for me to consciously be grateful. Grateful for my heart, legs, feet, breath, the whole package. As I put every thought into gratitude for what I have, including a rock to take a break on, the twinges and any discomfort disappears. The surrender that I so wanted to experience is a moment by moment part of my day.

Navarette to Najera

Written on May 27, 2009. 10.5 miles


Today as we walked I realized that my feet and body feel good. It is true that it takes about 5 days to figure out how one´s body will react to the constant walking and extra weight of the backpack.


Today while leaving Navarette we saw what we thought was an eagle nest....actually a stork nest. Storks flying everywhere. Very graceful. They´re just gliding overhead.

Yesterday as we walked toward Logrono which is between Torres del Rio and Navarette we were taking a break. As I turned around to put my backpack on in the distance I saw what looked like 300 pilgrims. Usually we see 2-4 walking together. We got ready and took off. Soon they caught up with us. They were a large group of people wearing red scarves. A man told Vern that they are a group of Basques walking from Pamplona. There were both French and Spanish speaking people. Also, yesterday as we were in Logrono talking to Monica and Sonia, the Basque group came by. Vern put out his hand for each person to slap as they went by. Monica was shocked...how do you know so many people in Spain? Again another party as we laughed about was happening and translating within ourselves in our own language and our own perceptions what that moment means to us. Now every time we see Monica and Sonia we just say ¨We love you¨.

Days ago Monica & Sonia, Vern & I became friends when we gave them some ham and cheese and chocolate.

We arrived in Najera. All that we could find was a loft. We shared it with 2 other couples.

As we walked around the town Vern was looking for a tiende, (market). I politely asked an elderly lady if she could tell me where the tiende is. She quickly responded by rubbing her thumb and index finger together indicating that she would tell me if I paid her. My first thought was...if I pay her and she tells me it doesn´t mean I´m going to understand. So off we went. We stopped at a Panaderia, (bakery). The lady in the bakery told us where the market is. About a block away. Najera is a large town, very much a mix of ancient and modern.

Torres del Rio to Navarette

Written on May 26, 2009 20 miles


Vern and I left the hostel at 6:10 a.m. and walked up and down some hills and past the ruins of an old Roman settlement. We then climbed steeply up into the medieval town of Viana past the 13th century church of Santa Maria.We passed Laguna de las Canera with several lakes and a great walking path. First we walked through Logrono, a big city. The first person we saw was Olivier!!!!! When we left Villamayor he was not walking very good. Here he is already in Logrono.

There are so many awesome people on the Camino. Sometimes in the early mornings we´re behind the guy that sings Italian opera as he walks along....I love it. Sometimes we´re behind the man with the pink towel on his head, held on by a rubber band. When we´re near him and near a highway he raises his walking sticks high in the air so that the trucks will honk. Pretty soon all of us are raising our walking sticks and having fun with the trucks.

This reminds me of something that happens to me at about 9 miles of walking....all of a sudden I just start laughing. No apparent reason. Just start laughing. We might think we´re lost or can´t find a place to stay...all full, or I have to go the bathroom now....or nothing is going on....I´ll just laugh. It took me several days to figure out that there was actually a pattern there.

Anyway, back to Logrono....after seeing Olivier we were looking for any place to stay. Just then I hear Nancy....what, who knows me? It was Monica and Sonia....we were jumping...they were yelling chicken eye, chicken eye. That is what Vern and Monica call each other because of the blisters that they have.

They´re headed for Navarette...another 7 miles.

After they left we discovered that we will not be staying in Logrono....3 and 4 star hotels. I´m not willing to walk far off of the Camino to look for lodging. We decided to head to Navarette. As a result we walked 20 miles today.

When we found our hotel room, the cost was 56 euros for dinner and breakfast for both of us and the room with a bathroom! Scored!!!

When I laid on the bed with my feet up I soon got the chills. I put blankets on but it didn´t help. I quick mixed some water with my protein powder and sports drink. Yes!! I feel good again. I just flushed the toliet..it sounded like a jet plane...won´t flush it very often.

Villamayor de Monjardin to Torres del Rio

Written on May 25, 2009 12 miles

Today most of the way was on flat dirt paths through beautiful farm land and vineyards. Just about every hill today had what is left of a church, castle, or citadelle. We walked through a large village, Los Arcos. Los Arcos had many albergues, but too soon to stop. Today we walked through our first thunderstorm and mud. We walked in it for about 1 1-2 hours. Many other pilgrims were in the same situation. I was wondering why I was packing my poncho....I found out today. Our ponchos kept us dry and warm. Our boots got muddy, but we cleaned them at the albergue in Torres del Rio. Many of us arrived at the same time at the hostel. After handwashing our clothes I went to take a shower...there was Chris from Germany.
Vern, Chris and I went to a local bar to eat a pilgrim meal. Several other pilgrims from our hostel showed up. As usual we are the only Americans.
We keep hearing about Tim from Texas, but so far have not met him. It´s amazing how news travels up and down the Camino.

Estella to Villamayor de Monjardin

Written on May 24, 2009 6 miles
We walked up hills for quite awhile to leave the city. After about a one hour walk we passed the famous wine font for Pilgrims in Irache.
For a short time today we put on our ponchos. We kept them on until they dried.
Alot more uphill climb today. After walking through vineyards and farmland we started the incline to Villamayor de Monjardin. At one point when we were taking a break a bird very close by sounded like a coo coo bird. Coo coo...9 times. We looked at our watches...it was 9 a.m. Wow, between the birds and the church bells we don´t need a watch.
We decided to make it a short day. We arrived at 10 a.m. Much too early to check into the hostel there. The sign said to wait until 1 p.m., find a bed...check in at 4 p.m.
We sat in front of the bar next to the hostel and drank espresso and met our friends Susan and Janine that we had shared some great times in St. Jean Pied de Port with. Then here comes our friends from Ireland....Mrs. O´Shea and the girls.
We met a new friend today...Chris from Germany. A young woman 28 years old. Very interesting and speaks great English. Vern spoke with her for quite awhile. I was on the computer in the bar. Later we played cards. Finally we could claim our bed in the hostel.
I ordered a manzanilla thinking that it was an olive, instead they served me a cup of tea. It was delicious...I´ll find out the word for olive.
Dinner....we´re starved....what a great meal. The cook decided to create a meal from Nepal...those who wanted to could eat it in the tradional way...with their hands.
I quickly whipped out my purell, cleaned my hands and dug in. Out of 30 people about 4 of us ate with our hands. Olivier from Canada across from me ate with his hands also. We became fast friends...laughing. He had a shirt on that the way it was folded it looked to me like it read, ¨Viagra Kills¨......When he straightened up I could see what it really said...Niagra Falls. We had a great laugh about that. I hope we see him further down the Camino.
There was a storm most of the afternoon and evening. Two young women were caught in it and were exhausted by the time they got to the hostel. There was only one bed left. Olivier gave up his bed for one of the women and slept by the front door. Pilgrims watch out for each other.

Obanos to Estella

Written on May 23, 2009 14.9 miles

Today we walked through a village with a pilgrim statue. Many villages with beautiful chapels. We walked along Roman walls and on Roman roads..huge rocks inlaid in the dirt. Also Roman viaducts were visible along our route for miles. In Villatuerte there was a park with a water font....many pilgrims laying in the grass waiting for siesta to be over. We will keep walking, we are not concerned about finding a hostel in this village. Vern and I and four women from Ireland have decided to continue to Estella. Once in Estella we found that hostels were filling quickly. The four women went straight and we turned at the sign for a youth hostel. I had read in a book that adults are welcomed at youth hostels. When we found the hostel the lady at the front desk said that she did not have a room for a couple. She made a few phone calls and found that just about every accomodation in Estella was full. She then proposed that Vern stay in the male dorm and I stay in the female dorm...great!!! It would have been another 6 miles to the next village and we were ready to eat and get to bed.

We kept meeting in the lobby....it felt like dating. We had a simple but healthy meal of fish, potato salad, bread and olives.

We have made a date to meet in the lobby at 6 a.m.

Goodnight.

Pamplona to Obanos

Written on May 22, 2009 13.3 miles.

We left the Pension at 7 a.m. and walked and walked in cool to moderate weather. We´re not seeing the same pilgrims because we spent 2 days in Pamplona. Soon, though, we see some pilgrims again and again. There are beautiful villages along the way. Today we saw windmills on most of the hills although there was little wind. Soon we came upon the sculpture that is shown on this blog in an earlier posting. We walked up to 2,400 feet before descending. It was tempting to stay in an Albergue there. We kept going though. Soon we saw fields of wheat with red poppies and then past fields of just solid red poppies. As it got hotter we decided to stop walking around 3 30 p.m. Found a pilgrim hostel for 9 euros per person. Washed our clotes and ourselves. Soon after discovered a miracle... a computer in the library across the street. We looked for a closeby bar for a pilgrim meal. They don´t serve until 7p.m. Had a great meal with several people staying at the hostel. A beautiful old church is across the courtyard from where we are staying.

Another beautiful day of Spanish vistas and landscapes.

Another Night in Pamplona

Written on May 21, 2009...day of rest.

We´re at Pension Escaray..a beautiful old building centrally located in a very old part of town. Lots of shops...bakeries, bars, delis, and boutiques alot like Union Street in San Francisco. We find that the bars are where we find the best food and snacks. Pinchos are like giant sushi. There´s quite the competition here on who serves the best pinchos.

Today, not far from where we´re staying in a large plaza was a protest. One in the afternoon and one in the evening. A total of 9,000 people attended throughout the day. The focus was the economic struggle and job losses in Spain, (in at least their region as far as I know). It was a good time to grab some food and head to our room.

The shops open around 9 a.m., except for the bakeries that open at 7 a.m. The shops close at 2 p.m. for siesta and usually open back up at 4p.m. to 5 p.m.

We´re looking forward to getting back on the Camino.

My truth is that no matter what I prepared for or how far I walked or how much I carried there isn´t any indication of what the actual affect of hours and hours of walking will be. I believe that fully packed with 7.7 lbs of water and my necessites that my bag is around 23 lbs. I have some minor irritations, but nothing that sleep and lots of water doesn´t take care of....and a constant mantra of: I feel good, I feel good, I feel good, I feel good....you get the idea.

Zubiri, Spain to Pamplona, Spain

Written on May 20, 2009....16.85 miles (2 miles wandering for a room in Pamplona).
Last night we found two of the only beds left in Zubiri. The municipal hostel was full. They opened a gym and put foam pads on the floor. We slept great! Today we saw new friends all day...Monica and Sonia from Germany, Gila and Pascal from Paris, Gonzalo and William from Madrid. Everytime we see each other we cheer because of the progress we are all making. Every break today turned into a party.
We´re pretty sure that Bob and Kathy are moving ahead at a pretty good pace. We might see them down the road if they stay somewhere for 2 nights.
We walked through many beautiful villages. Our favorite was Trinidad de Arre...great park, great bathroom and espresso. We walked along the River Arga and over it on bridges in several places. It was getting hot and we were ready to get to Pamplona where the bulls run in July.
Soothing my soul today were the most beautiful butterflies...white wings, black bodies...yellow wings, green bodies, and many others.
We walked through the suburbs of Pamplona. Today we saw Andy from Czech. We had seen him at Refugio Orisson. Andy walks until he´s tired and then hangs his hammock and sleeps until he wakes up.
Finally after some walking we found a beautiful Pension in Pamplona...a very ancient building. There are many rooms in the Pension with a shared bath. We´ll take a shower, wash our clothes and find a place to eat. We´re so glad to find such a cozy place.

Burguete, Spain to Zubiri, Spain

Written on May 19, 2009....14 miles.

Today we walked through pastures, medieval villages and right past the biggest bull I have ever seen. Once again we saw several of the pilgrims who we had seen at St. Jean Pied de Port and Refugio Orisson.

Today I noticed that a beautiful yellow flower growing in the middle of a stream provided the same warmth as a smiling face. Today we were mainly sustained by chocolate, bread, jamon and cheese.

As I write this we are laying on a mattress with our sleeping bags in a large gym with about 20 other pilgrims. The cost for this hostel is 4euros per person, (about $5.20).

We saw Bob as soon as we entered the village of Zubiri. They are staying in a pension. They need 3 keys to enter their room...very private.

Bob and Kathy have a good pace. They don´t have any problem getting to a village and finding the lodging of their choice.

I have a very slow pace. I have tried to persuade Vern to go ahead and get us 2 beds but he insists on staying close by....he is a keeper!

Refugio Orisson, France to Burguete, Spain

Written on Monday, May 18, 2009 13.24 miles

This morning we woke to a breakfast of coffee or tea (our choice) in bowls, french bread, butter and jam. We picked up 2 sandwiches we had ordered...jamon and fromage.

Today´s climb was about 6 hours. We walked through ground fog and mist. I could hear the bells on the sheep, but could not see them. Two pilgrims on horses rode by, then pilgrims on bicycles. All day we saw fellow pilgrims that we had stayed with at St. Jean and Orisson.

There´s something about seeing a familiar kind face that helps move me up the moutain. A woman from France said it best....Many of us don´t understand the language of the other, but we´re united with the same spirit.

Once we reached Col de Lepoder at 4757 feet we started going down a steep rock, dirt, mud path. Yesterday we started just above sea level.

Once we reached Ronscavalles Bob and Kathy were already there. They had checked out the hostels there and decided that Burguete would be a better place to stay.

Bob and I volunteered to the task of using an international phone card and calling a private hostel in Burguete...we did it. I asked the lady in Spanish if she had room for 4 persons. It ended up being a hostel that has a piano that Ernest Hemingway autographed.....or so it was told. I saw the piano, but not the autograph....didn´t look that hard.

Yesterday when I was putting on my backpack Bob had tried to help me....I backed up so that I could do it myself. My thinking was....I need to know how to do this without anyone around. Today as I was putting my pack on after a break a lady came behind and helped me.....today I learned to graciously accept help.

One of the first gifts of the Camino.

St. Jean Pied de Port, France to Refugio Orisson, France

Written on Sunday, May 17, 2009.

This morning after breakfast Vern and I, Bob and Kathy started our Camino. We left the hostel and walked left down a cobblestone street through a stone archway passing through the old town. At one time this part of town was a citadel. Once over the moat we started our long climb through the Pyrenees. Beautiful green, rolling hills and rock mountains dotted with sheep and cattle. Horses were walking on the road. After 3 1-2 hours and 4 to 4 1-2 miles of steep incline we came to our next and final reserved hostel, Refugio Orisson. Refugio Orisson is a beautiful hostel which is expanding anually to accomodate the growing number of pilgrims. We had a room with 4 beds and a private bathroom with a beautiful view of 3 mountain ranges, granite peaks, white farm houses with red roofs. Tomorrow we continue the steep incline for 11 miles to Ronscavelles.

Today we saw Susan and her friend a few other people that we have met in SJPDP.

Have Arrived in St Jean Pied de Port

L Esprit du Chemin

Vern and I arrived here yesterday. Bob and Kathy have just arrived here today. Yesterday Vern and I went across the street to the Pilgrims office to receive our Pilgrims passport: Today we went back to receive our shell to put on our backpacks. The shell is very much a symbol of the Pilgrim, representing the journey. As we ate dinner last night a fellow pilgrim, Susan, and I shared a moment of profound gratitude. Grateful for the wonderful hostel, the homade soup and the knowing that after the research plans and preparation we are here. Here in SJPDP the gateway to the way of St. Francis. Tomorrow we begin our Camino adventure.

I want to add a note that the months leading up to this moment contained personal markers that I had chosen a path that was being validated by a Power greater than myself. One such marker was: during one of my hikes in Gasquet with a friend there were 3 clamshells on a rock at the beginning of one of the swithbacks. Another marker was when we went to our tax preparer and started to mention the Camino....he moved a large clamshell from one end of his desk to another. I said Wow you have a clamshell....by the look in his eyes I could tell that he did not know what the connection was. time and time again there would be subtle signs and profound signs....I recognized them all.

Please know that there are several differences to this keyboard in France.....Im doing my best. Also anyone with a blackbery, please forgive me for the wierd times you might receive a message....there is an 8 hour difference.

Decision Made, Adventure Begins

My friend, Kathy, was researching and learning about the Camino while I was doing the same.
While in Texas we emailed info to each other that we were discovering. We had some discussions about walking the Camino together.
When I returned home I told my husband, Vern and our friends Bruce and Susie what I knew I needed to do. I did not have any expectations of what their reaction would be. Soon Vern told me that he would like to walk the 550 miles from St. Jean Pied-de-Port, France to Santiago, Spain via Finisterre.
Meanwhile Kathy and her husband, Bob were having discussions about the Camino and both decided to walk.
At the moment of decision each person began their "Camino".

Soon to be Camino Pilgrims..Nancy & Vern, Bob & Kathy

Since last summer the Camino de Santiago has been a "carrot" for all of us.

A goal that has made us take a look at priorities and what we needed to do to get there. A couple of us have had major health/surgery experiences as a part of our path. All of us have moved toward the Camino in our own unique way.

Today Vern and I leave our home to make our way to San Francisco. Tomorrow we will fly to Paris and take a train to Bordeaux. We will all meet in Bordeaux.

On Friday, May 15th, we will take a train to St. Jean Pied-de-Port, France.

On May 17th we will start hiking the Pyrenees.

As we walk the Camino as millions of others have done since the 7th century we will take with us the love, prayers, and thoughts of our friends, family, and fellow "bloggers".

Buen Camino!