Cacabelos to Trabadelo

Pilgrim Statue La Portela de Valcarce...outside of Trabadelo

photo courtesy of http://www.ourcamino.com/
Written on June 17, 2009.....11.7 miles.
Last night we had dinner with Lisa and Mariela, (not sure of spelling). Mariela is on a bicycle from Logrono to Santiago. She has already faced challenge and circumstance on the Camino that shows her courage and conviction.
We had a great sleep. At 5:30 a.m. this morning the resident storks that live on the Albergue church started their beak noises that can be very loud. A natural wake up call!
Vern and I left and started walking at 6 a.m.. It was a beautiful walk through vineyards and villages. As we entered Villafranca del Bierz we saw Mariela as she was passing us on her bike.
While taking a break at a sidewalk cafe in Villafranca an awareness came to me: sometimes when I was working I would visualize Vern and I sitting at a sidewalk cafe in a small village somewhere in the world. Here we were in the present time fulfilling that vision not only together but with the support and love of others.

As we were having our coffee Lisa was entering the plaza. Each person on the Camino plays a vital part just as in life. Lisa is a strong presence and unconditionally gives of her time and talents.

Many people in the plaza were discussing which one of the paths they would take today from Villafranca del Bierzo to Trabadelo. Our book recommended the path over the mountain. When we arrived at the place to make our decision: up the mountain, or through the valley next to the highway I was ¨pulled¨to take the path over the mountain.

As we walked up the mountain the views from there were incredible: wide valleys, mountain-top ruins, mountain range after mountain range, (we counted nine in a row), and Villafranca. We truly were in the wilderness in Spain.

After three hours of walking up the mountain it was getting hotter and hotter. I became concerned about myself when I realized I was sucking on the top of my walking stick to get water. I immediately drank some water and electrolyte supplement and ate some hard candy.

All through the mountain Vern was seeing beautiful green lizards, he thinks they were chameleons.

Once we climbed to the summit the trail started winding through hilltop orchards and down into the village. We walked directly to the municipal albergue and picked out our beds. We walked through the village and found the albergue that Lisa is staying in.

We had a great dinner in a restaurant near Lisa´s albergue.

As we were leaving the restaurant Lisa was talking about having breakfast early in the morning. The owner heard her and told her that he opened at 6:30 a.m. Lisa said that she wanted to leave earlier than that. He said good, I will open at 6:00 a.m.! Wow, that´s service!

Ponferrada to Cacabelos

Written on June 16, 2009......10.5 miles.

The picture is Albergue-Parroquia to the right,

Capilla de las Angustia to the right. Seventy cubicles with two beds in each cubicle.

There are many pilgrims leaving Ponferrada this morning around 6:30 a.m.

We pass a small chapel, Ermita son Blas. I have to stop to look at the colorful mural.

As we enter Camponaraya we notice a pilgrim with a dog going the other way!

Another pilgrim who is making the return pilgrimage from Santiago!

As of today we have seen our fourth pilgrim cart. We´ve also seen a pilgrim carrying a trolley on his back with his backpack. One thing about the Camino is no matter how you do it, how fast you walk it or if you use transportation other than your feet it is your Camino and judgements on the Camino are slim to none. As we entered Cacabelos today three young women who started today from Ponferrada started singing in front of us. When they stopped I said loudly, mas musica por favor, more music please. They immediately started singing again. They sound great.

Cacabelos is a friendly village. We arrived at 11:30 a.m. and the alburgue will open at 12 noon. We are staying at Albergue Parroquia at an 18 th century Capilla de las Angustia chapel. Six euros per person. Our room has two beds, storage for backpacks and a light. There are showers and a place to wash and hang clothes. we know that Lisa is walking here today, too.

El Acebo to Ponferrada

Castillo de los Templarios..Ponferrada photo courtesy of www.ourcamino.com

Written on June 15, 2009....10.2 miles.

As we were leaving the village in the morning I noticed the sign, ¨Leaving El Acebo¨. Leaving El Acebo? I thought we were in Riego de Ambros!!

We were guided to a wonderful mountain village in spite of ourselves. Later when we shared our story with Nicky, he said, ¨that was a strange thing to happen to people that don´t drink¨.

As we entered Riego de Ambros, 3.7 miles down the road, we were grateful that we were confused! We loved El Acebo. As we left Riego de Ambros the path we were on changed from large slabs of slate-granite to variuous sizes and shapes of petrified wood.

The last two days have been on beautiful mountain paths . Although we had already walked through the Pyrenees in the first two days it was foggy and our view obscured. Yesterday and today have been clear. As the sun rose we were able to see an hidden village in the distance, serene and isolated.

As we entered Molinaseca I stopped....Iglesia de las Angustias had been built up against steep cliffs. We then crossed a medieval bridge across the River Meruelo.

We have noticed more and more pilgrims in recent days. Some pilgrims start in large cities where bus and train connections are possible.

As we left Molinaseca we climbed for a while. At the summit Ponferrado was in clear view...the newer section to the left...the old section to the right. We headed for the main plaza and clock tower, on the left was Castillo de los Templarios...a beautiful castle on the highest point of the city. We found a room and settled in. Around 7:30 p.m. we started looking for a restaurant. Vern had spotted a Mexican restaurant...the first one we have seen in Spain. As we headed for the restaurant we heard, ¨have you had your supper yet? It was Nicky...we thought he had already left. We were so glad to see him. We sat with him and ordered dinner. We all discussed our walk from Astorga and the beauty of the mountain path.

We know that tomorrow he leaves the Camino and heads home to England. We´ve enjoyed every moment with him from the first time he and Luke passed us on the Camino before Fromista. He would pass us then a few hours later we would see him in a village or in a bar on the way to the village.

Although we did not spend much time walking with Nicky we always came to life when we would see him in an albergue or village. He would get to the villages so early that he would have his pick of beds and would always try to get a private corner to himself. We always would listen to his opinion of where to eat or where the tienda, (store), was because he would have plenty of time to explore the village or city. There are many people on the Camino but there are those who we feel a connection with and just by contact with them made the miles go faster and the sun less harsh. Nicky is one of those people.

Buen Life Nicky!

After our dinner with Nicky we walked with him to his albergue and saw Lisa...they both took us to the Chapel on the grounds, near the ruins of a monastery.

We enjoyed our walk through Ponferrada with its variety of art and architecture, ancient and new.

Rabanal del Camino to El Acebo

Pictures.Refugio in Manjarin and a house in El Acebo where people live upstairs, animals downstairs.

Written on June 14, 2009.....10.5 miles.

As we left Rabanal we climbed higher and higher. I took my time and looked back over the beautiful valley to see the sunrise. Soon we came to Foncebadon, a very small village with a welcoming feel and again an albergue/bar with incense and great music. We took a break and readied ourselves for the climb to Cruz de Ferro at 4,940 feet. We had read about Cruz de Ferro and had seen it in a video. Marking the spot is a tall pole with an iron cross of top. Cruz de Ferro has become a place for pilgrims to reflect on their journey, bless themselves and others , leave a rock from home...(Vern left a rock from a beach in Crescent City), or any token of love. It is a place to do whatever you are moved to do. A short way down the path there was a pile of rocks with a cross. Being the only one there I spent a moment to thank all who have been on my path with me, have crossed my path, and have walked with me throughout my life. As we started down the mountain we came to Manjarin. Manjarin really can´t be called a village. The first sight of Manjarin is a hut-like structure that looks like a beehive. A short way, approx 75 feet is an refugio with an outhouse across the road. The view from this mountain hideaway is phenomenal. I am so grateful to be viewing it. As I enter the refugio, the hospitalier is ringing a bell. Our friend, Lisa, later told us that he rings the bell every hour so that pilgrims find their way. I love the atmosphere here, I love the energy, I love the funkiness, the honesty. At that moment I know that whatever I had ever perceived as hip, was not. This is HIP! I tried to express my feelings to two pilgrims from Germany...they just kept looking at my hips and laughing. At least I know what I mean.

So as we carefully continued down the mountain we entered a village and checked into our room at a Casa Rural.

As we were checking in the owner told us that today there is a big festival. We showered, washed our clothes and left to explore the village.

Soon a procession emerged from the church. Every person that had attended Mass was in the procession. The Father was in the front under a canopy held by four people. Every few feet someone would throw rose petals. An elderly gentleman walked slowly playing the flute. As soon as the procession circled the village they went back into the church. Several people brought out food for the village, visitors and pilgrims. As the festivities, live music and fireworks continued throughout the evening I layed in bed with windows wide open....resting my body, mind, and spirit for the next day of walking.

Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

The Cowboy Bar in El Ganso....to the right is where we met the bicyclists.

Written on June 13, 2009.....13.3 miles.

Again while leaving another city we were confused by the lack of waymarkers. Just at that moment Julia and Gregario came by as they had done several times before.

Each time we would see them I could feel the connection between the four of us become stronger.

This morning in their deliberate, slow Spanish..(for our benefit) they let us know that they were finishing this phase of their Camino and would be going back home to Madrid.

The communication between the four of us had been accomplished with our limited Spanish, their limited English and a true desire between us all to convey and receive friendship.

Vern and I continued on taking a break in El Ganso. I was noticing that the last couple of villages had an "Eastern" feel to them. One village had an homeopathic Doctor. Another village had a bar that was playing East Indian music and burning incense.

As we were taking our break in El Ganso a group of pilgrims on bicycles from Belgium stopped to talk with us. As we were all sharing where we were from and where we started the Camino their support vehicle pulled up. As introductions were being made one of the bicyclists introduced the older gentleman in the vehicle as the Pope. The gentleman being introduced as the Pope seemed to enjoy it and proceeded to "bless" our feet. The driver jumped out and wanted to take a picture of us to show others what people from California are doing.

As we were walking into Rabanal a herd of sheep were crossing the road, we waited and then proceeded into the village. The hostals were filling up so we continued further into the village. We found one in the center of the village. The hospitalier was very friendly and showed us where to wash and hang out our clothes. Our room was on Calle Mayor, (the main street). We had a beautiful view of the mountains and we could see pilgrims as they were coming into the village.

As I was hanging out my clothes I heard music coming from a chapel. I went inside and enjoyed the music and the beauty of the chapel.

Lisa was staying in the same village. She spent some time with us while we were finishing our dinner. We asked her how life was "after the broom". She laughed and said life is good.

Villar de Mazarife to Astorga

View of Plaza Cathedral in Astorga.

Written on June 12, 2009....18.7 miles.

We left at 6 a.m. and were shedding clothes by 9 a.m. We walked many miles before we found a bar....walked over the longest rock bridge yet, (Puente de Orbigo), Rio Orbigo. This beautiful bridge dates from the 13th century and was built over an older existing Roman bridge.

We started taking more breaks due to the heat. Our friend Lisa was walking along as we were taking a break, we continued into Astorga with her.

When we arrived in San Justo de la Vegas I took my shirt off and held it under a water fount......put it quickly back on and enjoyed being cooled down. We went to the nearest bar and I ordered my first descafenado con hielo, (iced coffee).

Vern and I continued to Astorga, Lisa moved ahead to find the albergue.

We walked through plazas and past shops to find the albergue, St. Javier. We found two top bunks that were available.

As I was taking my shower a massage therapist went through the albergue to ask pilgrims if they wanted a massage. Lisa signed up and was able to get her massage while we headed for dinner.

While we were finishing our dinner in a hotel around the corner Lisa came in to join us...she was glowing and smiling. She loved her massage....1 1-2 hours for 10 euros...$14.50!!!

As we were having our dessert we were all talking about our walk in the morning out of Villar de Mazarife. Vern and I talked about the beautiful sunrise and other aspects of the morning. Lisa started smiling and said that she saw a man sweeping as she was leaving her albergue. A young man sweeping very good!! She was smiling so much and her face getting red...then she told us he was sweeping without clothes. Vern told her that her life will now be defined by b.b. (before broom) and a.b. (after broom).

After dinner I went to my bed. After a short time my leg cramped up....I got down from the top bunk the best I could and went to the bathroom to get hot water to put on my leg. As I was putting hot water on my leg Lisa saw me and came over to see what was going on. She immediately pulled a one dose packet of magnesium out of her fanny pack and told me to take it without water. I went back to bed. Again after falling asleep for a short time my leg felt like it was trying to cramp again. I had remembered seeing two full size mattress pads near the reception area. I thought that I better get off of the top bunk while I could. At the same time I was getting downstairs to the mattress pad another pilgrim was looking for a cooler place to sleep. I had a great nights sleep thanks to friendship and support on the Camino.

Leon to Villar de Mazarife

Clam shell in sidewalk.. Monastery San Marcos

Written on June 11, 2009....14.4 miles.

As we were leaving Leon yellow markers were non-existent. We had to closely look for brass clam shells embedded in the sidewalks. It was dark so we had our headlamps on. We crossed a street and started to head off of the Camino. A gentleman in a truck stopped in the middle of the street and ran over to let us know that we were off the Camino....derecho, derecho!! a San Marcos!! (straight, straight to San Marcos). We didn´t have any idea what San Marcos was. A few blocks later again we weren´t sure where we were....here comes Julia and Gregario from Madrid who we have seen many times before. They speak a little English and we speak a little Spanish...they guided us to San Marcos, an ancient monastery dedicated to St. Mark. It began as a pilgrim hospital in the 12th century, it then became the headquarters of the Knights of the order of Santiago which was formed to protect the pilgrim way. It is now a five star hotel. Gregario asked at the desk if we could go to the courtyard and look at the sculptures. Just the building and grounds would be an experience to explore and spend time at. We are grateful for the glimpse that we had of the art work and interior of San Marcos.

Thank you Julia and Gregario...you gave us a gift of exploration and put us back on the Camino.

Once we were back on the right track we walked for several hours in the suburbs of Leon. There were three Camino options today the recommended and two alternatives. We took the recommended. We walked thru villages and farmland. A great walk to Villar de Mazarife. And again Nicky passed us......we met him soon in a bar.

Once we arrived at Villar de Mazarife we stayed at Tio Pepe´s, an hostal across from a church. We can see many storks on the top of the church from our window.

Vern saw Lisa while she was on the computer downstairs...she invited us to her albergue, Refugio de Jesus. When we arrived Jesus was singing to background music, he was very good. Nicky was staying there also....small Camino. While there we met our first pilgrim from San Francisco, Matt.

I love the location of our hostal across from the main plaza, church, water fountain (fuente) and stork family.

Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon

Main Square in Leon

Written on June 10, 2009.....11.6 miles.

We slept in until 6:15 a.m......got ready and took off. Soon after we started walking our friend Nicky passed us and told us that he is moving so quickly that he will have to stay somewhere for a day. We will see him in a couple of days.

We had good cool walking weather, a couple of minutes of rain but not enough to put our ponchos on. We met a pilgrim today who has walked from Austria and one pilgrim walking east. I couldn´t believe it...he said he had walked to Santiago and was now going back to Burgos.

We have seen many stork nests today. We walked on a hill by a chapel and could see babies in the nest. There were alot less pilgrims in the Meseta and during the rain two days ago. More and more pilgrims now in Leon.

We had called ahead to get a room near the Correos, (Post Office). Another successful pick up of health supplements that I had mailed to myself on May 12th from Gasquet.

We are doing well, but even I can´t deny that taking a two hour nap after we find our bed each day is vital. We settled in today in Leon and walked around to see the beautiful Cathedrals and went inside a church.

Our room is across from a twenty foot Roman wall.

Before we went to dinner we walked through old town to find the Camino. We ran into our friends Lisa and Christine. They were having a snack at a bar at a sidewalk table. We have fun talking with them....always laughing.

Bercianos del Real Camino to Mansilla de las Mulas

Virgen Del Camino on the way to Mansilla de las Mulas

Written on June 9, 2009....16.3 miles.

As we left the monastery this morning a pilgrim couple looked confused. As we came along with our headlamps on, (unconsciously blinding them), we told them to follow us. We had checked out the way back to the Camino before going to bed. Although the village was very small all streets seemed to lead to a store or the bar. They followed us and then walked with us for awhile. Then off they went.

Alot of miles in between villages today.

When we arrived in Mansilla de las Mulas today we started to look for La Delicias, a hostal that was mentioned in our book. We saw the name of the hostal but it did not seem to be open. We went to the next building and tried that hostal. They had a room.

After Vern had taken his shower he was looking out our window onto the street. He happened to see Nicky on the street below. He yelled to Nicky. Nicky could see that Vern was wrapping himself with the curtain because he had just come out of the shower. In his very wonderful Irish accent Nicky said, ¨Come out onto the balcony Vern¨.

Nicky, Colby, and Shannon were all staying at the albergue next door. Vern had asked Nicky to let Colby and Shannon know that he wanted to take a picture of them.

Our room was not easy to find and they weren´t able to locate us.

We know that we will see them further down the Camino.

Before we had gone to dinner we found a panderia, (bakery with coffee) and saw Julia and Gregorio who we had been seeing the last few days. They are a friendly couple from Madrid who we converse with in our little bit of Spanish and their little bit of English.

Terradillos de los Templarios to Bercianos del Real Camino

Adobe wall ruins are a familiar sight along the camino.

Written on June 8, 2009.....14.8 miles.

Last night we had a good dinner at the albergue with three young people from Canada.....Colby, Shannon, and Liz. We met them at a pandareia in Carrion de los Condes.

Free internet at this albergue. They offered a private room with toliet and shower for 32 euros...we grabbed it.

At dinner I had mentioned the awesome labyrinth that we had seen at one of the previous summits. A couple of people at dinner had mentioned that they had not seen a labyrinth. We had not even walked 1 1-2 miles this morning when on the right of the path was a labyrinth...about 8 feet in diameter.

Today on our way into Sahagun we had to use our ponchos...so grateful to have them. It rained for about two hours. By the time we arrived in Sahagun we were ready for a coffee. We found a great cafe with many pilgrims coming in from the rain. As soon as we had our coffees and a good visit we went outside to find that the sun was coming out and we could put our ponchos away.

A short while later as we were entering a small village I saw what looked like a small mountain...which it was...it was also a house with four doors, a chimney, and a t.v. antenna, (a true hobbit house). Many houses in this providence, (Palencia), are made out of earth, or in a small hill, or made out of sod and straw.

There was a high wind today that took special effort and mantras. Today´s mantra was Thank you Spirit for the cleansing wind.

When we reached our destination, Bercianos del Real Camino we immediately followed the arrows to the albergue. We´re staying in a Parish hostel in a large room with twenty cots and several surrounding rooms with many bunk beds.

This albergue is truly authentic....very old...with handhewn wood staircase and logs. The village is very authentic as well. We walked into a bar thick with smoke. The only women in there were me and the two young women behind the counter. Many men were playing dominos and yelling out numbers....treinta, cuarenta...30 and 40....I assume those were winnings that they were racking up. I loved it.

Many times while travelling it is hard to really get in touch with the local flavor...this was definitely it.

The beds and dinner are donation in the tradition of the Medieval pilgrimages.

There were two large tables for a communal dinner. Some pilgrims were asked to help with preparing the meal and serving it.

It was a great time. Everyone introduced themselves and the country they are from. There was about four of us from the United States.

We heard about a pilgrim who has walked from Moscow. By the time he reaches Santiago he will have walked 4,000 kms. (2,400 miles).

Carrion de los Condes to Terradillos de los Templarios

The red poppies and various wild flowers have guided our way for weeks.

Written on June 7, 2009.....16.6 miles.

As of today we have been on the Camino for three weeks. Two days off...one in Pamplona and one in Fromista. We have walked 225 miles. All mileage is calculated from the book that we are using as a guide. I intentionally left my pedometer in Estella. It was taking up too much room in my pocket.

Today we walked eleven miles before we reached a village. We had food with us. Nick and Luke passed us on the Camino. Luke had bought new sandals to walk in to give his toes a break. So far he was doing well.

I am grateful for the cool weather to walk in. I seem to have much more stamina in the cooler weather. Today we walked many miles on rocks and dirt to asphalt and pavement. We´ve really hit a stride. We´re arriving in most villages earlier than we thought we would.....we do leave at 6 a.m. The book that we are using only showed one albergue in Terradillos de los Templarios. When we arrived we found a brand new one at the entrance of the village.

Many villages are busy building and opening albergues and bars in anticipation of 2010, a Holy year. The expected number of pilgrims is 250,000. Four million people are expected to go to Santiago to see the Pope on July 25, 2010.

Fromista to Carrion de los Condes

Monastery albergue that we stayed in..Carrion de los Condes.
Written on June 6, 2009.....12.5 miles.
Last night while Vern was watching the Perfect Storm in Spanish on t.v., there was a real storm going on the Fromista. This morning we left in perfect walking weather. We walked for about seven miles before coming to a small village. Vern spotted a sign for a bar...it was through a yard and out of sight. He must have smelled the coffee! It was a cool place with a Bob Marley poster.
Today was relatively flat. It was one of the first days that I walked all day without taking off my coat.
When we arrived in Carrion de los Condes a gentleman asked if we spoke English...we said yes...he told us that he had an albergue with microwave, handwash facilities, etc.
We ended up with a private room for fourteen euros....great deal! The best part of it was that St. Francis of Assisi allegedly stayed in its 13th century buildings.
As we were walking through town after checking into the albergue we saw a horsedrawn cart in front of a church. By the looks of the decoration the cart was there to pick up a bride and groom. As we were in a store picking up some snacks for tomorrow we heard one explosion after another...later to find out that those were the fireworks going off as the bride and groom came out of the church.
Tonight we had dinner in an actual restaurant, not bar. It was one of the best meals yet. For the first course I chose macaronis....for the second course I chose lasagna....wow, carboloading at its best.
We had dinner with Luke and Nick, two men we have seen for the last several days. We had a fun time.
Now it's time to rest our bodies and minds.

Photo Acknowledgement and Thanks

All pictures downloaded to this blog from May 17, 2009 will be possible due to the generosity of Piers Nicholson and the website: http://www.santiago-compostela.net/
*unless otherwise noted*

Thank you for the awesome website and for allowing pilgrims like myself and others to utilize the pictures that you have taken.

A Day in Fromista

Iglesia de San Martín

Written on June 5, 2009........Day of Rest.

This morning we slept in until 8:30 a.m. We went downstairs for desayunos, (breakfast), fresh orange juice, toast, and coffee. We walked around for awhile. The Iglesia de San Martin was open so we went in. It is as unique and beautiful on the inside as it is on the outside.

What a great kick back day. We took a long nap. I spent quite awhile on the internet posting and exploring.

We just had a great pilgrim dinner around the corner. I had veal with potatoes, a chef´s salad and chocolate mousse. Vern had noodle soup, sausage and potatoes, and chocolate mousse. Just about every bar serves a pilgrim dinner.

Soon we´ll play cards. Alot of nights we have to wait to find a place for dinner until 8 p.m. Tonight we ate around 6 p.m.....plenty of time to get our backpacks together and play cards. We were only willing to carry one deck of cards so we usually play ¨pay me¨, a game we learned from our friends Bruce and Susie

A note about our friends from Ireland, ¨Mrs. O´Shea and the girls¨.

Marian wrote us a note to let us know that they continued much farther down the Camino before they had to return home. They hope to continue the adventure at another time.

Vern had first met Mrs. O´Shea while I was in the library across the street from the albergue in Obanos. He had been introduced to all four of the women.....Mrs. O´Shea and her friend Marian...and Mrs. O´Shea´s daughter and her friend. As a result I have never known their names, but we felt a strong connection with them. We enjoyed seeing them everytime that we did. In fact, after I returned from the library in Obanos we had dinner at a bar near the albergue. Sitting next to us were the four women from Ireland. And so it continued....we would pass them on the Camino or sit in a small village and have a break with them. On the way into Estella we all walked together to find an albergue. The next day we saw them in Villamayor de Monjardin as we waited to check into the Dutch run hostel.

Our thoughts are with them and we cherish the time that we spent with them.

Castrojeriz to Fromista

Written on June 4, 2009......15.8 miles.
We left Castrojeriz at 5:40 a.m. Today is the final stage of the Meseta. We wanted to get going before it got hot. We had to climb a steep hill to leave Castrojeriz. As I climbed I occupied myself with a to do list that I turned into a mantra. I had an orange that I wanted to eat...it was heavy...so orange was a word. I need to unzip the legs of my pants because I was hot....pants was a word. I needed to drink my sports drink for electrolytes...so drink was a word. My mantra became orange, pants, drink..orange, pants, drink. I repeated it a thousand times.
As I reached the summit I looked back and saw the most beautiful valley and sunrise.
We walked eight miles to the first bar. As I was drinking my decaf espresso with leche I heard American music coming out of a speaker on the veranda. Yes! I danced and drank my coffee.
Today we walked on alot of earthen paths clearly marked. Very few pilgrims today.
No shade, carrying 3 liters of water.
After a few more miles we stopped in the village of Boadilla. We found a bar with a backyard and a pilgrim from Louisiana. The three of us were talking about how few Americans we have met on the Camino. We were the first she had met. Vern and I have met about ten Americans, but we have met alot of English speaking people from Canada, Ireland, England, Germany and other places. Just about that time here comes Andrew from Virginia who we had met yesterday in Castrojeriz. We had our coffee and were going back into the bar to get something else...it was closed. Oh well, it´s siesta time.
There is an ancient canal system in Fromista that seems to be updated over the years. It seems to be one of the highlights of this village. Another highlight is the eleventh century Iglesia de San Martin. A beautiful one of a kind cathedral...at one time could have been a fortress as well, or it seems. It has been hailed as one of the finest examples of pure Romanesque in Spain. The detail is beyond belief.
For the last few days we have chosen hotels over albergues. We have needed the extra sleep and the t.l.c. that comes with a hot bath.
We love the feel of Fromista and will spend tomorrow here taking care of ourselves and ¨re-grouping¨.

Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz

The remains of St. Anton over the road on the way to Castrojeriz.

Written on June 3, 2009....13.2 miles
Vern and I and the family were the first ones to leave the albergue. I did not want to wake up the other twelve people so I put on my headlamp and got dressed in the hallway. I took my backpack and sleeping bag outside to a bench to get organized and ready to go. After brushing my teeth in the plaza I was ready to go. Everyday I am carrying three liters of water and drink every bit of it.
As we were leaving Hornillos, walking up a hill, a fellow pilgrim passed and as she did she turned around and gasped......the sun was rising and it was incredible.
We took few breaks today and moved along quickly as it was getting hot earlier than usual.
The silence in the Meseta is deafening. Blue butterflies and again...red poppies guided the way.
One of the only areas with shade and a cafe was Hontanas about seven miles from where we started. As we walked toward Hontanas we did not see it until we were almost on top of it. It is hidden in a valley with the very top of the church the only part of the village that is visible.
We are grateful that we started early. By 11:30 a.m. the sun was hot.
Vern was far ahead singing, ¨She´s so vicious, she´s so vicious¨ really loud to some song on his ipod. About that time a couple from Madrid caught up with me and looked at Vern who was still singing. I told them that mi esposo tiene musica en su cabeza. They laughed and moved on. They told me that they are walking the Camino in three parts in three years. This is their second year.
As we entered Castrojeriz a college student stopped us and indicated that he wanted us to answer a survey about the Camino. Vern stopped to talk with him. I told the student that I would answer his survey if we moved into the sombra, (shade). Vern didn´t care if he was in the sun so he stayed with the student...I moved on to find a quiet room with a bathtub.
We found a wonderful room. We went to a farmers market outside and bought a couple of bananas and apples. We did very little walking in this village as we needed to save our energy for another day in the Meseta.

Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

The Meseta

Written on June 2, 2009......12.7 miles
There were some wonderful statues and sculptures to catch our attention as we were leaving Burgos. We walked about two miles before moving out of the city. After several miles and two villages we started walking into the Meseta. It will be about three days of walking to once again be in shade and more services.
We were fortunate today....lots of sun, but a cool breeze most of the day. When we arrived in Hornillos del Camino the albergue was full, but they had an overflow section in a house a short distance away. A family came in right behind us from Poland.....it is our first time in an albergue with children. The children are about 8 years and 11 years. They both have their own backpacks that seem fully stocked.
The father told us that he works for an American company and speaks pretty good English. The room we slept in not only had bunkbeds, but for added beds, had bunkbeds placed directly next to each other. As a result, Vern slept next to their son and I slept next to their Mother.
Around 5 p.m. a young couple on bicycles pulled into Hornillos. The man was pulling a trailer...they had a toddler....another first for us on the Camino.
Again today we saw Andy. Andy is a pilgrim that we have known for the longest amount of time. We met him on day two in Refugio Orisson in the Pyrenees. I tried to explain to Andy that we had heard that Monica and Sonia may be going back home because they are homesick. I said that they inferme de casa. He laughed so hard that he almost spit out his wine. He said in his best English that I did not say homesick...I said that their house was very sick.
Whatever my laughing pattern is it is now happening everyday. I tried to explain this to Andy....he said that it is my hour of happiness. He is right
Andy has walked through Italy without trails. He likes to sleep outside in his hammock as much as possible.
I feel so blessed to have this time on the Camino to truly exchange moments of joy and truth with others.

San Juan de Ortega to Burgos

The Cathedral in Burgos

Written on June 1, 2009.....16.9 miles plus.
Last night we stayed in a municipal albergue in an old monastery. There had to be 200 people in three rooms. We soon learned that there would be soup at 7 p.m. for a donation. We decided to look around for a meal in the small village. I went next door to the bar to ask about food. I was told to go to the house behind the church at 7 p.m. When I went to the house around 4 p.m. to sign up for dinner I was told to go back to the bar and let Manuel know that Vern and I want to eat dinner at 7 p.m. I sat in front of the bar and wrote in my journal waiting for Manuel...I knew that he would go back and forth between the bar and the house. I finally saw him and in my best Spanish asked him if we could eat dinner at his house....he said yes. It felt like going into the underground to make dinner arrangements.
It was one of the best dinners and best values that we´ve had.
We left the albergue at 6 a.m. and walked up and up. About two hours later we reached a summit with a large cross. A short way later there was one of the most profound labyrinths I have ever seen. It was very large...about 40 feet in diameter. It seemed to be created by each person placing a stone next to a previously placed stone while they walked on their way.
Soon after we, for the first time, saw a pilgrim with a dog. The dog looked like a long thin Akita.
Again today we saw our friends Monica and Sonia. They are contemplating whether they will proceed through the Meseta. The Meseta is the high plains. What that means to pilgrims is: very little shade, no water founts, and alot of miles between villages.
Today we walked through the industrial part of Burgos in order to get to the City Center and stay on the Camino. In San Juan de Ortega we had talked to a few pilgrims who were going to take the bus on advice of their guidebooks.
Sometimes it is as many miles to enter, pass through, and leave a city as it is to go 10 miles between villages.
The Catederal de Santa Maria in Burgos has spires that can be seen for miles. It is breathtaking in size and beauty...and that´s just on the outside.

Belorado to San Juan de Ortega

This Chapel dedicated to San Nicolás de Barri

Written on May 31, 2009....15.9 miles.
Today we left Belorado at 5:45 a.m. with headlamps on our hats. We walked through 3 villages in the first 1 1-2 hours. We finally arrived at a bar that was open to get our morning cafe. Vern gets espresso shots con leche and I get descafenado con leche (decaf with milk). When I went to the servicios (bathroom), I was in there for about 3 minutes when the light went out. I had taken my headlamp off by now. After about a minute I got an idea....raise my hand in the air...it worked, the light came on, then went off. So I sat on the toliet raising and waving my hand in the air every couple of minutes. Productive and exercise.
Today we climbed three hills, one kept going and going. As people walked by me and greeted me it became harder and harder to see them. It was difficult to see them because sweat drops were gathering in my sunglasses.
Ever since St. Jean Pied de Port we have heard about Tim from Texas. Today in front of the hostel in San Juan de Ortega we met a couple from Canada. They proceeded to introduce their American friends...one of them was Tim from Texas. Vern immediately took a picture.
A note about Bob and Kathy: Yesterday I checked email. On May 29th Kathy had emailed me that they were in Leon. They had spent 2 days in Burgos and are having a great time on the Camino.
In June they will be Grandparents. They´ve had to make time adjustments and have gladly done so.
We will stay in touch via email.
Buen Bambino!!

Redecilla to Belorado

A fun way to cross the river on the way to Belorado

Written on May 30, 2009....8 miles.
Last night we slept in a municipal albergue....14 people in a room. I slept good with my earplugs and sleeping mask.
We left Redecilla around 6 a.m. It´s been hot during the day so we wanted to get an early start. We want to have a good sleep tonight and a bathtub before heading into a more mountainous area.
Again today we saw our friend with the pink towel on his head...always laughing and smiling. We saw Ingrid and her husband on the Camino...we had dinner with them last night.
We´re now walking for about an hour at a time with a 10 minute break, more or less. It was easy to stay on track today, clearly marked......and....we were paying attention.
We´re constantly on the lookout for yellow arrows. The arrows may be painted on walls, sidewalks, streets, trees, rocks, billboards, fences, or just about anywhere. Another indicator of the Camino is a clam shell. Clam shells are usually embedded in the sidewalk when first entering a village.
Today I took the best bath I have ever had. The bathtub has a shower attachment within reach while laying in the bathtub. I was so tired that when I was ready to wash my hair I just turned on the shower and stayed right where I was. The height of luxury...a million dollar bath.
We just checked outside to see where the yellow arrow is when we leave in the morning.....it´s about 50 feet away.

Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Redecilla

A waymark in Redecilla.

Written on May 29, 2009.......8 miles
For the first time on the Camino we stayed at a hostel until the last minute. At 8 a.m. everyone must leave. Santo Domingo de la Calzada is one of two post offices that I had mailed health supplements to before we left home. The Correos (post office) opens at 8:30 a.m. I went in with my picture ID. and with my best Spanish and asked if they had an envelope for me....and they did!! Yes, I was so stoked. I used the last of my supplements yesterday. Now I have protein powder, sports drink powder, seaweed powder, emergen-c packets and muscle re-builder. I believe that these supplements and 2 1-2 to 3 liters of water a day has helped my feet stay healthy and free of chicken eyes, (blisters). It´s added weight to my backpack, but well worth it.
As we left Santo Domingo de la Calzada we were fascinated by large birds again. This time we clearly saw that the birds are not eagles but storks. Many high posts are placed for the birds to make their nests on. We were so focused on the birds that we took a wrong turn and went right instead of straight. Sometime down the road we figured out how to get back on track.
Due to our late start we decided to cut our walk today to 8 miles. We have found a hostel with wash tubs, clotheslines, a bar, the internet, and pilgrim meals.
The Camino way of life is fully a moment by moment exercise in letting go. There is a definite fellowship that develops in the acceptance of others. Language is not as important as one may think. Ideas and well wishes are conveyed without knowing exactly what one is saying. The term of endearment on the Camino is ¨Buen Camino¨, ¨Buenas Dias¨! Farmers, construction workers, Priests, fellow pilgrims...everyone wishes all pilgrims the very best.
In the last two days I have been in two of the most beautiful churches I have ever seen. The feeling of peace in the churches is amazing considering there are many people talking and walking around. The art work and detail are truly works of love.