Thursday, June 4, 2009

San Juan de Ortega to Burgos

The Cathedral in Burgos
Written on June 1, 2009.....16.9 miles plus.
Last night we stayed in a municipal albergue in an old monastery. There had to be 200 people in three rooms. We soon learned that there would be soup at 7 p.m. for a donation. We decided to look around for a meal in the small village. I went next door to the bar to ask about food. I was told to go to the house behind the church at 7 p.m. When I went to the house around 4 p.m. to sign up for dinner I was told to go back to the bar and let Manuel know that Vern and I want to eat dinner at 7 p.m. I sat in front of the bar and wrote in my journal waiting for Manuel...I knew that he would go back and forth between the bar and the house. I finally saw him and in my best Spanish asked him if we could eat dinner at his house....he said yes. It felt like going into the underground to make dinner arrangements.
It was one of the best dinners and best values that we´ve had.
We left the albergue at 6 a.m. and walked up and up. About two hours later we reached a summit with a large cross. A short way later there was one of the most profound labyrinths I have ever seen. It was very large...about 40 feet in diameter. It seemed to be created by each person placing a stone next to a previously placed stone while they walked on their way.
Soon after we, for the first time, saw a pilgrim with a dog. The dog looked like a long thin Akita.
Again today we saw our friends Monica and Sonia. They are contemplating whether they will proceed through the Meseta. The Meseta is the high plains. What that means to pilgrims is: very little shade, no water founts, and alot of miles between villages.
Today we walked through the industrial part of Burgos in order to get to the City Center and stay on the Camino. In San Juan de Ortega we had talked to a few pilgrims who were going to take the bus on advice of their guidebooks.
Sometimes it is as many miles to enter, pass through, and leave a city as it is to go 10 miles between villages.
The Catederal de Santa Maria in Burgos has spires that can be seen for miles. It is breathtaking in size and beauty...and that´s just on the outside.

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